Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Tenerife's Wet South - Siam Park
It might have been a few months late, it wouldn’t be Tenerife if it wasn’t, but this week the newest tourist Mecca in Europe, the aquatic theme park, Siam Park finally had it’s inauguration.
On Monday night, the hoi polloi of Tenerife’s society ‘glamm’d’ themselves up and headed to a hill overlooking Playa de Las Américas to see what the fuss was all about.
HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn of Thailand did the honours by cutting the garlanded ribbon and declaring Siam Park open in front of a handful of Thai supporters and a heaving throng of press who were pushing and shoving to get a photograph as though Keira Knightley had just turned up wearing a bikini. Incidentally the press ‘box’ was situated facing such dignitaries as Ricardo Melchior (President of the Cabildo of Tenerife) and Paulino Rivero (President of the Canary Islands) which meant that when the Princess arrived and was greeted by both, photographers were treated to a great view of the back of the Princess’ head.
By that point most of the 2000 or so invited guests were already inside the park having a nosey around, which is what everybody was really interested in.
Walking through palatial doors and finding that suddenly you’ve been transported from Tenerife to Thailand is bordering on the surreal, but there’s no denying the impact of being faced by a ‘village’ of traditional wooden Thai huts with panelled walls and elegantly curved roofs. Thai architecture is stunningly beautiful and some might view the collection of stilted buildings out of place on a Canarian hillside, but they’re no more out of place than the mock Roman/Grecian palace in the resort below and they’re a hell of a lot more pleasing on the eye than most of the concrete rectangles found between Siam Park and the sea.
On the porch of the ‘floating market’, a couple of heartbreakingly beautiful Thai girls with flawless complexions painted delicate patterns on silk umbrellas and carved elaborate shapes from watermelons (hmmm…beautiful girls with impressive melons; the next line is just too easy and cheesy).
But what of the rides themselves? It all might look very nice, but ultimately this is a theme park meant to thrill. A few lucky local youths had been picked to demonstrate the rides and the screams which preceded their appearance at tubes which emerged from beneath giant Khon mask sculptures, dragons and replicas of towering ancient temples suggested they were having a masochistically good time, even if some looked a bit shell-shocked (the near vertical ‘Tower of Power’ looks as though only fools and those with suicidal tendencies would attempt it).
As the chic designer dresses and suits headed to the ‘Palace of Waves’ for the inauguration speeches, discovering that stilettos and sand aren’t compatible, and the kids in their swimwear rocketed through transparent tubes one last time, watched by tropical fish with glinting eyes, darkness fell over the ‘Water Kingdom’.
Siam Park won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s aesthetically pleasing on the eye and the rides look imaginative and thrilling; in short it looks like good fun, which is pretty much its aim. There have been debates on blogsites about why a Thai and not a Canarian theme was chosen for the park; however, as a friend commented during a visit to the upmarket end of Playa de Las Américas:
“It’s all very nice, but it could be Dubai, or Las Vegas.”
If the resort that Siam Park is located above isn’t in the slightest bit Canarian, why should it be?
On a final note, the rocks around the pools aren’t made from cardboard as some websites suspected, but they aren’t stone either…
Siam Park is open to the public from Wednesday 17th September; price €28 adults (€25 residents); €18 children 3 -11 years (€16 residents)
Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Santa Cruz You're Not That Far
At the beginning of summer The Telegraph newspaper reported on a survey undertaken by Ebookers which showed that the global credit crunch was prompting a lot of Brits to re-think their traditional holiday plans.
Foremost amongst the findings was the statistic that only 27 percent of them planned to take a full fortnight’s holiday with a surprising 20 percent opting instead for short city breaks.
Coupled with earlier reports from leading travel companies that British winter breaks abroad are up by 20 percent, the coming Brit season in Tenerife could prove to be a bumper one for the constantly evolving Santa Cruz.
Over the past five years, developments in Tenerife’s capital city have seen its profile change from that of "utter hideousness" as described by Florence Du Kane in 1911, to a vibrant 21st century metropolis which offers beauty, sophistication and culture in its architecture, plazas and attractions.
The city enjoys an ambient all year temperature of 22 degrees along with near constant sunshine in which to wander its historic streets where once, Nelson’s defeated soldiers were marched back to their fleet and their now armless (ouch… on 2 fronts) leader.
The tram system offers easy and economic access to its architectural, botanical and cultural treasures while in the continually developing Noria district, excellent restaurants and cool, stylish bars are springing up at breakneck speed.
The recently refurbished Plaza España adds another eye catching feature to the iconic Auditorium on the city’s portside where some of the world’s largest liners are planning to dock this winter.
All this only a four hour flight away from a cold wet and windy UK will have you humming the 2003 Thrills single “Santa Cruz You’re Not That Far” all the way to the sunshine.
Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Monday, July 28, 2008
Living under a cloud - Pinolere
Despite its stunning location; bordered by barrancos on both sides and backed by the vast, sheer, pine clad face of the cumbre, it’s difficult to get a good photo of Pinolere due to the near-constant presence of the sea of clouds which hovers above the settlement.
Known by the locals as living under ‘panza de burro’ (belly of the donkey) because every time they look up they see grey, the cloud is a legacy of the trade winds that frequent the La Orotava Valley. It may be a nuisance when you’re looking for clear blue skies to light up your photographs, and Pinolere is unlikely to knock Playa de las Américas off its pole position for Brits coming to Tenerife in search of a suntan, but for the 700 or so inhabitants of Pinolere the cloud is a friend and ally. Along with lower temperatures, it brings moisture and humidity, essential ingredients for abundant growth.
For centuries the community of Pinolere has been virtually self-sufficient, producing everything it needed from the land; potatoes, corn, wheat, grapes, rice, rye and cane all thrive here. Goats, cows and pigs grow fat on the rich grazing while the forests produce pine needles for their bedding; the trees produce tea and chestnut wood, firewood, charcoal, building material and resin. Once prevalent over much of the ‘medianías’ or central lowlands of Tenerife, the houses of Pinolere were until recently constructed of dry stone, roofed with chestnut wood entwined with branches and then thatched with straw.
As a result, Pinolere is a community of craftsmen and women; basket weavers, carpenters, iron workers, embroiderers, potters, stone workers and charcoal makers.
Pinolere Craft Fair
The intoxicating smell of cakes assails our nostrils as we saunter past the opening stalls groaning under the weight of sugar, almond and syrup coated ‘dulces’ , sweets and chocolates. Then comes mojos, honeys, jams, herbs and spices, each stall more inviting than the next. The wine stalls are particularly popular, small cups dispensing samples from individual cosechas.
Following the winding path as it gently climbs from one level to the next the stalls change to wood carvings, ceramics and toys. Small children pull brightly painted little tin carts on string from a stall that’s doing a brisk trade. The noise and bustle of the crowd is augmented by shrill screeches produced by water filled whistles from another stall.
Sitting within thatched, open sided huts, rows of elderly men and women are weaving cane strips into baskets, hats and trays.
In an open clearing by the refreshment stand, an elderly man in a beret is spinning a top and making it dance, flipping it from his toe to his head and back again to the delight and applause of a small crowd.
On a stage, a group of musicians are demonstrating traditional Canarian musical instruments through the ages and getting a group of children to reproduce the sound each one makes.
Some of the thatched buildings house exhibitions; in one there’s a history of the little hats worn on the side of Canarian women’s heads and in another, a collection of avant-garde handbags made from cane and leather, each one a work of art.
The stalls seem to go on for ever. There are clothes and shoes, dried flower arrangements, beautiful ceramics, dolls houses, Tiffany lamps, glassware and ornamental stoneworks.
And far from being dull, old fashioned, “why-on-earth-did-I-buy-that” when you get it home sort of products, there are the most beautiful and modern designs of ornaments, accessories, furniture, shoes and clothes that fuse craftsmanship and traditional materials with contemporary colour and design.
In short, it’s a revelation and an Aladdin’s cave of early Christmas presents.
This year the Pinolere Crafts Fair will be held over 5th, 6th and 7th September in Pinolere in La Orotava.
As well as the annual crafts fair, there’s a permanent museum housed in thatched buildings which recreates various aspects of local life. Open every Tuesday to Sunday, 10.00 -14.00; entrance €2 adults, €1 children. (Map)
Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Getting Your Pound's Worth of Tenerife
Last month's continuing growth of the Euro is very good news for anyone who has a holiday home here, but to the millions of Brits who are planning to travel to Tenerife on holiday this year it means higher prices and tighter belts.
That's particularly bad news for those who want to spend all their days around their hotel or in their resort.
A survey of 2,053 Brits on behalf of Halifax Travel Insurance last month revealed that, when they get to their exotic holiday location, Brits spend on average less than 7 hours in total away from the 'bubble' of their resort.
The report went on to find that almost three quarters of package holiday Brits never visit modern tourist attractions such as water or theme parks. All they want is a long day at the same pool followed by a long evening in the comforts of the same bar and they even prefer eating in the resort rather than sampling local cuisine. All of which may prove to be bad news for a wallet full of currency that's struggling to carry its suitcase.
So, how do you make your weak sterling go further when you come to Tenerife? It's easy; take it by the hand, buck the survey results, and give it some exercise.
Firstly, avoid the places where prices are at their highest, that is, the Brit resorts of the south coast. You'll pay substantially higher prices for meals, drinks and snacks in Playa de las Américas, Costa Adeje and Los Cristianos than you will virtually anywhere else on the island. Opt instead for locations such as Puerto de la Cruz, Playa San Juan and El Médano where Canarios and Spanish mainlanders also holiday; you won't find them paying the sorts of prices being charged on the south coast, they're notoriously canny when it comes to value for money and you'll do well to follow in their footsteps.
Regular contributors to the popular on-line holiday planning resource of TripAdvisor are complaining about the prices of drinks in the southern resorts where many of the bars are charging €6 (£4.80) for a spirit and mixer. Prices are even higher in hotel bars. Although prices vary hugely, the TripAdvisor regulars are quoting an average of €25 (£ 20) per person just for standard restaurant meals, many of which are of the micro-waved 'chips with everything' variety, and as much as €50 (£40) for up-market French restaurants such as El Roque and Bistro D'Alain.
Last time I was in Playa del Duque, I was amazed to see that restaurants were charging €16 (£13) for 'Cherne', a white, meaty Grouper commonly caught in these seas and very popular on traditional Canarian menus. In Puerto de la Cruz you'll pay €7 (£5.60) for Cherne.
Move away from the resort areas of the south and you'll pay €2 (£1.61) for a pint of Dorada, €3.50 (£2.82) for a 'combinado' (spirit and mixer) and €4.50 (£3.62) for a cocktail. For top notch dining in Puerto de la Cruz you can expect to pay around €30 (£24) per person including wine, and in most of its 300 or more restaurants you're more likely to be faced with a bill of under €18 (£14.50) and an average of €9 (£7) for the menu del dia. You'll also find that chips are almost always passed over for 'papas arrugadas con mojo' (small, salty boiled potatoes with spicy sauces).
Secondly, even if you can't possibly consider staying anywhere other than Costa Adeje or Playa de la Américas, get out of the hotel or resort and explore. You can pick up a BONO bus card for either €12 (£9.67) or €30 (£24) at kiosks, shops and bus stations displaying the green 'BONO Bus' sign which will get you half price travel on the extensive network of buses that will take you all over the island.
The Titsa bus service is clean, efficient and (mostly) reliable and it's a great way to see the island as you travel. Lunches, drinks, ice cream and snacks will all cost you a fraction of the price outside of your resort or hotel and you'll gather a stock of experiences and memories to take back home with your suntan.
It's ironic that most of the trips offered by travel reps, (Loro Parque, Masca, La Orotava, Garachico) are in fact in the north, centre or west of the island which means those staying in the south are travelling further and paying more for the privilege of visiting the less expensive locations.
If you prefer to have complete independence over your travel arrangements, you can hire a car on Tenerife for very reasonable prices with a one week rental falling mainly in the €150 (£121) to €200 (£161) range but can be for as little as €102 (£82). Petrol is also cheaper here than in the UK.
Finally, if you really can't be crow-barred away from a day by the pool, discover some of the island's wonderful swimming pool complexes. Some, like the ones in Puerto de la Cruz and Santa Cruz, have been designed by the Lanzarote born architect and designer César Manrique and offer tropical landscaping, comfort and beautiful design alongside aqua waters, restaurants and bars for just €3.80 (£3) for the price of your sun lounger and mattress for the day and you'll still be saving money on your drinks, snacks and Piz Buin.
If there's to be a silver lining to the strength of the Euro for holidaying Brits, it's the opportunity to get out and experience some of the real Tenerife and to go home feeling like they've actually been abroad; you never know, it may just catch on!Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Sunday, March 30, 2008
La Laguna - What a Cool Place
On Good Friday, or Viernes Santo as it's known on Tenerife, I travelled to the Island's former capital, La Laguna, to watch the Silent Procession. I deliberately bypassed the gridlocked traffic vying for spaces around Plaza del Adelantado on the edge of the old quarter, so that I had to crisscross the old town's atmospheric streets to get to where the procession was taking place.
It was no hardship; I could happily stroll along La Laguna's cobbles for hours, soaking up the sense of history that oozes from every unevenly plastered old cottage and smooth basalt stone façade of aristocratic mansions. 
The policy of having street lighting designed to reduce light pollution means that you don't get 'bright lights, big city' on Tenerife. Streets are dimly lit at best, bathed in soft, golden hues reminiscent of cinema's numerous depictions of Victorian London. In most European cities, the dim lighting would have had me quickening my step and glancing around nervously for danger lurking in the shadows, but not here. On these streets and alleys, it only enhanced the notion that I was somewhere else in time. If I had passed Harry Lime lighting up in a doorway, I wouldn't have looked twice. Every so often the darkness was broken by the inviting glow radiating from tascas whose modern chic interiors somehow complimented their colonial exteriors.
It's one of the things I like about La Laguna; although the old quarter is a wonderfully preserved treasure chest of old townhouses and mysterious convents with latticed balconies; an open air living museum, if you wish, it also has a modern underbelly which borders on bohemian.
The mix of old and new was evident all around. An abstract sardine tin doorframe fronted an 18th century townhouse; intricately carved wooden balconies from the 17th century were reflected in shop windows displaying the latest fashions. In Plaza del Adelantado old guys in fedoras shared benches with ultra modish students from the city's university.
The sky was clear and a bright full moon cast a silvery glow on the darkened streets, but a vindictive northern wind was racing through the streets doing a passable impression of 'The Day After Tomorrow' and the warm ambience of a tasca seemed a more inviting prospect than waiting on exposed streets which would have a brass monkey gulping nervously. However, I resisted their lure and took my place, folding my arms against the cold.
When the first of the hooded brotherhoods emerged from the darkness and passed silently in front of me, all thoughts of feeling cold dissipated; I was transfixed. For just under an hour, the hooded figures flowed silently by. The scene was almost medieval and yet around me, stylishly dressed Laguneros looked as though they could have just stepped from the pages of Vogue.
That's La Laguna. I think it's fair to say that, whichever way you look at it, it's definitely one of the coolest places to visit on Tenerife.Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Friday, February 22, 2008
Dr Livingstone, I presume?
Masca Barranco, like a scene from 'Lost'I was talking to a guy in a bar last night ... I know that sounds like the opener to a joke, but it isn't, at least, not the sort that has a punch line ... and he tells me that he's been coming to Puerto de la Cruz for his winter holidays for 25 years yet he's never even been to Masca, in anyone's book, a must for visitors to Tenerife. And he's not alone.
As an avid follower of TripAdviser forums, I'm constantly amazed by the attitude of so many people who are planning to stay within a 15 minute walk of their hotel or apartment, and those who consider themselves nothing less than latter day Doctor Livingstones if they intend to get a bus to Los Gigantes.
Whatever happened to the Victorian spirit of adventure? Did we Brits get affluent and lazy in post war economic prosperity?
When the sixties brought cheap flights and accommodation within most people's grasp, did we just get too idle to leave our sun beds after touchdown? 
Siete Cañadas path in Teide craterTenerife is a hiker's paradise; there are trails all over this island that take you through some of the most dramatic and beautiful scenery you're ever likely to encounter. From palm filled, banana covered coastal plains that sweep down to pirate lookouts and abandoned haciendas; abyssal ravines where fresh spring water runs crystal clear beneath towering cliffs in scenery straight from an episode of 'Lost'; to the expansive plains of the Teide crater where you can lose the tour buses full of visitors in a kilometre and discover a landscape where volcanic cones and wind-eroded rocks create a gallery of surreal sculptures. You can chose to spend the entire day hiking across areas or simply to enjoy an hour's stroll to work up an appetite for lunch.
The fort of San Fernando on the Los Realejos coastRecently, Jack and I have been traversing the length and breadth of Tenerife for a series of articles we're producing and on all our trails, the only time we've encountered more than a handful of Brits has been in Barranco del Infierno. And why? Because it's a stone's throw away from the resorts of Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas and Costa Adeje.
Now I'm not suggesting that exploring uncharted jungles or backpacking across Patagonia is everyone's cup of tea. On the other hand, having flown 1,900 miles to get here from the UK in the first place, wouldn't it be worth investing a few kilometres more to discover that there's a whole fascinating island beyond the poolside bar and the paper shop?Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Friday, January 11, 2008
Tenerife Carnaval: Creatures of the Night
With the Carnaval season about to begin again this month, Real Tenerife Island Drives' Andrea Montgomery writes about her and Jack's experiences at Carnaval in Puerto de la Cruz.
We're standing at the Plaza Charco end of Calle Perdomo. A family walks past and the youngest child looks back, catches my eye and screams. There's a steady trickle of flashes from cameras as people ask if they can take our picture.
Three hours earlier we'd been watching the Barcelona match on TV, still dithering about whether or not we should attend Carnaval's opening party and not having given a moment's thought to a costume. After raiding the 'Halloween and Xmas Panto' box from our former lives in the UK, Jack emerged as a fiendish werewolf and, with the aid of a recently discarded mosquito net, I'm the Corpse Bride.
A sudden hike in volume in the music persuades us to abandon our diorama and join the throngs of furry animals, transvestites, super heroes, ghouls, witches, Smurfs, Cardinals and nuns (to name but a fraction) who've turned the street into an open air rave.
The small beer stands dotted along the centre of Perdomo and around the plaza and harbour area are doing brisk business in JDs and coke and the tapas stall has removed its high stools to make standing room only for the hordes of revellers whose attack of the munchies can only be sated by a Desperate Dan sized montadito or three.
By 3 am the whole of Plaza Charco, the harbour, Calles de Mequinez and Perdomo are dance floors and a circuit of them takes us through different music zones and their respective audiences. In the main plaza, a Latino band is pumping out salsa to couples who sashay and swirl in synchronised rhythm within the confines of their floor space. On Perdomo, Mequinez and Marina, the disco beat provides the background for a Club mix of grime and hip-hop with hot Latino undertones and one or two classic anthems riding the airwaves en route.
The circuit, which would normally take us 2 or 3 minutes to stroll, takes upwards of an hour to negotiate, only moving forward when the crowd permits and stopping at regular intervals to dance or order a drink. At one point we detour to the car park on Parque Marítimo, where we've abandoned the car until the sober hours of Sunday, and stumble across a whole alternative Carnaval.
Every other vehicle has its boot open and is distributing drinks from the small off licence within to throngs of teenagers who surround it. On the roof of an old battered VW van, a devil is standing at decks, lining up the next track in between swigs from a bottle of Soberano Rum. The van is shaking from the impact of the bass beat that pounds out across the car park. Everyone seems to know each other and they're all partying like it's their last chance ever to do so. But it's not, it's just the first night and over the course of the next 7 days, there'll be six more just like this one.
It's 5.30am before we finally arrive home having walked from the Plaza. I drag my weary limbs up the path to begin the tiresome and messy job of removing my theatrical make-up before my head can hit the pillow. By the time I wake up, I won't need the make-up to complete the look tomorrow night.
Click here to read more about Carnaval in Puerto de la Cruz
Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Carnaval 2008, Real Tenerife Island Drives
Friday, November 09, 2007
New Wines and Old Traditions
On November 29th, the eve of St. Andrew's Day, the Fiestas of San Andres are celebrated in Icod de los Vinos, with an event unique to the Canary Islands, called the Tablas de San Andrés - kinda kamikaze sledding down near vertical streets on boards. While in Puerto de la Cruz, it's popularly known as the Fiesta of Pots or Chestnuts ...
We've parked the car on some ridiculously steep street in the upper reaches of Icod de los Vinos. It's the Eve of San Andrés and we've heard that around here they have an unusual way of celebrating the fiesta.
As we turn the corner to descend to the main street we can see groups of people, stalls, Red Cross ambulances and the road cordoned off; we know we must be close. Further along, we can see a huge pile of tyres strewn across the main street where it meets with Calle del Plano. Suddenly there's a cheer followed by applause and we arrive at the tyres just in time to see the body of a twenty-something lad flying through the air and landing with a dull thud in the midst of the tyres which then close in on top of him.
Scrambling out, the lad fumbles around in the tyres until he pulls out his blue bobble hat which he returns to his head and, retrieving the discarded sledge, he tucks it under his arm and begins the long trudge back up the hill. En route, he avoids the sledges that are already careering back down at breakneck speed towards the tyres, a mixture of fear and exhilaration on the faces of the riders, sparks flying from the base of the sledge.
The practice of riding the boards in Icod and La Guancha originates from the seventeenth century when the year's wine harvest was transported down from the upper reaches of the town to the coast on sledges pulled by oxen. The sound of the barrels riding the cobbled streets was a clear signal that the new wine was ready for tasting.
Everything but the kitchen sink
In Puerto de la Cruz the fiesta of San Andrés also remembers the bygone sound of barrels; once the ?must?, or fermented grape juice, had rested in the barrels for ten days, the wine was transferred to clean barrels and the dirty ones were rolled down to the harbour to be washed.
Nowadays, as the Eve of San Andrés begins, Plaza del Charco is filled with the clatter of metal on stone as children and teenagers drag metal objects of every size from discarded cola cans to old washing machine drums along the streets. Known as Arrastre los Cacharros (run with pots and pans) the object of the exercise is to make as much noise as possible.
But it isn't just the tradition of the wine harvest that?s at the root of the noisy fiesta. Old superstitions talk of the noise being created in order to ward off evil spirits and to keep swarms of locusts at bay. But by far the nicest story is the one that tells of San Andrés who, arriving on Tenerife at the same time as the harvest, liberally partook of the new wine and then fell asleep, whereupon local children tied pots and pans to his clothes so that when he turned over, the noise would wake him up.
Whatever the stories, the Patron Saint of Scotland's Feast Day is a day to celebrate and it would be nothing less than impolite not to drink a toast to the man himself with the new vino del país; fruity, light and lethal if drunk in large quantities but perfect accompanied by a bag of hot roasted castañas (chestnuts), a pincho (small skewer of marinated pork) and a piece of anis bread while sitting on the harbour trying to ignore all that noise.
¡Feliz Fiesta San Andrés!
Read more Fiesta of San Andrés in Puerto de la Cruz & Icod de los VinosCopyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Lifting the lid on tapas in Puerto de la Cruz
I popped the little green pepper into my mouth and let my taste buds savour its pleasant, slightly bitter flavour, made savoury by rock salt and olive oil; without warning, somebody thrust a white hot poker into my mouth and I lunged for the bottle of cool water to try to douse the inferno, whilst my friends collapsed in laughter. I'd just taken the metaphorical bullet in the game of culinary Russian roulette that masquerades as the tapas dish pimientos de padrón.
One of the joys of travel lies in exploring another country's cuisine and pimientos de padrón is one of an extensive range of tapas dishes that are popular on Tenerife, an island with an interesting gastronomic identity fashioned over the centuries by a mix of Spanish and South American influences with a soupcon of Guanche thrown in.
During September, Secret Tenerife highlighted the first Ruta Gastronómica in Puerto de la Cruz, a promotion of tapas and local ingredients; however, there's no need to wait until the second before sampling some of the delectable dishes in traditional and atmospheric restaurants and tascas around the town.
The intimate Tasca Muralla on Calle La Hoya is a cosy bijou bar where mojo verde (a local pesto-like sauce) adds a zing to a ration of mussels. At Tasquita de Min, beside the harbour, tables are at a premium on Sundays when Canarian families descend en masse and order frying pans filled with succulent lapas (limpets drizzled with olive oil, coriander and garlic). In El Rincon's beautiful courtyard, off Plaza del Charco, dark polished antique Canarian balconies and a towering palm tree overlook Bar Luis where a sizzling clay dish of gambas al ajillo, will get the juices flowing; beware, these prawns in garlic oil take an eternity to cool down and are guaranteed to scald if you eat one prematurely.
My favourite tapas restaurant is Cha? Paula, an old Canarian townhouse with a bar where local fishermen play dominoes and curse the football, a dining room and an eclectically quaint courtyard; any one of which is ideal for indulging in some of the best tapas in Puerto. The first time I ate there, I was served by a Bobby Ball look-alike who insisted he was good friends with Tom Jones and told me that ?the food?s great, but the service is crap,? only one of which was true. ?Bobby Ball? proceeded to serve up a feast including chipirones (delicious small tender squid); smoky cheese from El Hierro, chickpea stew; sausage of Teror (named after the village on Gran Canaria; although when the waiter set fire to it at the table, I felt it warranted another ?r?); And, of course, pimientos de padrón, one in ten of which can be hot enough to blow the top of your head off; a characteristic which makes them popular with kids despite their verdure tones.
Ultimately, the tradition of ordering a selection of small dishes 'para picar' is appealing because of a combination of ingredients; it?s sociable, fun and for the price of a couple of main courses you get to try a whole selection of flavours; it?s a great way to savour the essence of Tenerife.
Click here to continue reading Eating out in Puerto de la Cruz, TenerifeCopyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Friday, September 07, 2007
High Fliers: Granadilla's Festival Internacional de Cometas
With the XVII Festival Internacional de Cometas de Tenerife (17th Tenerife International Kite Festival) about to take place at the Playa de La Tejita, El Medano, Granadilla de Abona, this weekend, Jack Montgomery gives us a glimpse of the wonderful and surreal creations you can see against Tenerife's blue skies ... 
When I tell friends that I've seen an octopus, stingray, puffer fish and shark all at the same time, they look impressed. When I casually add that when I saw this eclectic collection of marine creatures they happened to be in the sky at the time, their expression changes and I can see them wondering whether I?ve been overdoing the mojitos.
However, head for Playa de La Tejita, between El Médano and Los Abrigos, on either the 8th or 9th of September and it's very possible you?ll be greeted by a similar, surreal scene as it's the location for Granadilla?s Internacional Festival de Cometas (Kite Festival). This contemporary fiesta, it?s only sixteen years old, is an enchanting and laid back affair, when the skies above the beach are filled with a colourful display which includes big, beautiful and occasionally downright bizarre kites.
Over 100 participants are expected at the two day event, including kite fliers from Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, South America and Germany. The fact that it takes place on a kilometre long beach also means there?s plenty of space for spectators.
It?s widely accepted that the Chinese invented the kite more than 3000 years ago, since when it's been used in wars, to progress our understanding of the weather, for fishing and even for building bridges across ravines. The kites at Granadilla; however, are definitely flown simply for pleasure, both participants' and spectators'. Although, the Gallic curses coming from the French crew at last year's fiesta, as their giant red octopus stubbornly insisted on keeping his eight feet firmly on the ground, showed that it isn't always sunshine and smiles. 
From mid morning the sky begins to fill with diamond shaped and snakelike kites, darting and weaving in the hazy sunlight. Their numbers increase as the day progresses and bigger, more ambitious and more surreal creations join the party until the sky becomes a mass of multicoloured creatures ranging from the wonderful to the weird. The pick of last year's kites were the thirty foot bright red octopus which dominated the scene and the Leon brothers from Madrid's witty combination of Gaudi lizard and footballers' legs. The sight of two oversized pairs of disembodied legs chasing a huge ball along the beach will stay with me for a long time. Throw into this colourful affair a couple of beach bars selling refreshing beers and a stall helping kids make their own mini kites and you?ve got a visually stunning and very laid back festival which both adults and kids will love.
And the best bit? Because the festival takes place on the beach, there's no standing around for hours waiting for the payoff. By mid afternoon when the collection of kites reaches their zenith and the sky is transformed into a visual feast for the eyes you can simply lie back on the warm sand and enjoy the eclectic army swirling and swaying in the heavens above; pure bliss.
Read more about these high fliers in High as a Kite »Copyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Heart 2 Heart
In the little town of Tejina above the northern coast of Tenerife, the people wear their hearts, not on their sleeves, but on giant frames that play the starring role in the Fiesta de Los Corazones de Tejina (the festival of the hearts of Tejina).
The fiesta is one of the most deep-rooted festivals of the Canary Islands and its origins are bound to the seasonal celebration of the harvest. Offerings of fruit, flowers and boughs to the local saint are a common feature of fiestas in the Islands and date back to pre-Hispanic times when the Guanche wove boughs of laurel, palm leaves and aromatic herbs into arcs which were used to adorn holy places during religious rituals.
But in Tejina, the arcs have evolved into something extraordinary.
Standing in the Plaza de San Bartolomé on a sultry morning in August, the air is suddenly split by the whirr and bang of firework rockets as the ?hearts? appear; three huge wooden and iron frames bearing hearts decorated in fruit and pastry discs with an extravagant bouquet of flowers atop, are being carried by groups of 20 or more men, their faces wet with the strain of the 800 kilo weight.
On a wall by the side of the church, a small girl is hurling insults at the group right next to where I'm standing who are straining to raise the heart with poles and ropes onto a waiting cross fixed into the plaza. The girl is wearing an orange Calle Arriba T-shirt while the men beside me are wearing white El Pico ones; these are rival hearts from rival districts of the town. 
As the El Pico team slot their frame onto the waiting bracket a roar goes up from around me; they?re the first to raise their hearts. The little girl is furious and stands with hands on hips, still badmouthing the team who now laugh at her and congratulate each other.
When the hearts are secured, Spanish flags are inserted, three into each side and the finished spectacle is awesome; the plaza is filled with flags, bunting and coloured bulbs that hang in swathes above the brightly coloured kiosks selling jams, wine, flowers and wood carvings. Centre stage, the three ?hearts? stand like characters in a Lewis Carroll adaptation, creating a Wonderland in the plaza. 
From beneath the hearts, groups of rival neighbours are making comments about the quality or otherwise of the workmanship of the pastries, the freshness of the flowers and the uniformity and positioning of the fruit. Voices rise as the observations turn to insults, each one attracting a retort from the neighbouring heart and a cheer and laughter from the crowd. But the rivalry is good natured, and witty, and the atmosphere in the plaza feels like a local party to which I haven't been invited but am nevertheless welcome.
Tomorrow the hearts will be stripped of their fruit and pastries which will be thrown to the crowd as ?trophies? of the fiesta. Minor injuries such as an orange in the eye or a pear blow to the head will undoubtedly occur and people of a nervous disposition will be well advised to stand clear. So just for today, the Corazones de Tejina fill the plaza, a wondrous sight and a tribute to the agricultural heritage of Tenerife?s ?greenhouse valley?.
Heart-y-Facts:
The Fiesta of Los Corazones de Tejina takes place this year on Sunday 26th August in the town of Tejina in the valley above Bajamar on Tenerife?s northern coast.
- 11.30 am ? The hearts leave their barrio, accompanied by their parrandas, and are carried to Plaza de San Bartolomé in the centre of the town.
- 12.00 midday - Offerings are made to San Bartolomé and the hearts are raised.
- 21.30 ? Poems and dedications are recited to the hearts in Plaza de San Bartolomé
- 27th August at 19.00 hrs ? hearts are stripped of fruit and pastries which are ?distributed? to the crowd
- 28th August from 11.30 am ? children?s version, or Corazones de Los Chicos de Tejina fiesta
Read more about the charms of the Fiesta de Los Corazones de Tejina (Hearts of Tejina) here
Copyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Tenerife Highs
Living on the North West coast of Tenerife, its impossible to ignore Mount Teide. From Punta de Hidalgo through Tacaronte, El Sauzal and the La Orotava Valley to Icod de los Vinos, its vast presence looms like a monolithic Guardian Angel.
An icon of Tenerife and the Canarian archipelago, at 3,718 metres, Mount Teide is Spain's highest mountain, Europe's highest volcano and the third highest volcano in the world. To Tenerife's earliest inhabitants, the Guanche, it was the place where the devil lived and where the earth held up the sky. This year, Mount Teide gathered a new title to add to its CV when UNESCO awarded it National Heritage Site status, and last week, for the first time since re-locating to Tenerife, I took the cable car trip. 
Less than 10 minutes after boarding the car, I was standing at a height of 3,555 metres overlooking Gran Canaria, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro all floating on the horizon like a satellite image. It was all a great deal quicker and easier than the last time I looked out over the neighbouring islands from above the clouds.
It was November then, still hot on the beaches at the coast as I set out from the base of Montaña Blanca at a height of 2,200 metres to begin the ascent to the Alta Vista Refuge where I was to spend the night before continuing onto the summit to witness sunrise from the peak.
The climb wasn't technically difficult at all, an easy ascent for a couple of hours before the thigh-stretching two hour climb to the Refuge. But the effects of altitude multiplied the effort required, lungs and muscles straining to work effectively in the oxygen-starved atmosphere. By the time the roof of the Refuge came into sight, I could barely put one foot in front of the other.
After one of the longest nights of my life at the Alta Vista Refuge where I lay in icy silence for six hours in a dormitory shared with 14 strangers; the altitude and my aching legs ensuring that sleep remained an unapproachable stranger, I stepped out of the Refuge into the pitch dark at 4.30 am for the final ascent.
After two hours of tortuously slow progress, every step a test of physical and mental stamina, I finally reached the summit and climbed onto the topmost boulder as the grey half light of dawn retreated behind the peak. Cloud floated all around like a halo of foaming sea and the horizon burned pink, then orange as the sun rose. The lower peaks floated in the cloud like a school of hump back whales riding the white surf; beyond the circle of cloud, the lights of the south coast and La Gomera burned like diamond shoes at the feet of the giant volcano. I had a six hour, nine kilometre descent ahead of me, my fingers were numb and my feet and legs were screaming. But just for now, none of that mattered; I was standing with the Gods on the top of the world where the earth held up the sky.
Taking Refuge
The Alta Vista Refuge sits at a height of 3,270 metres and offers basic shelter to those climbing the mountain. There are no facilities for cooking and no refreshments on offer. Theres a small gas burner available to heat water, but with only one burner and lots of climbers, a hot drink is just a distant dream.
Its essential to book in advance. Fee per adult: 12.00.
Tel. 922 010 440; Fax. 922 287 837.
Permits:
To climb to the summit of Mount Teide you have to apply in person to:
National Park Office
C/ Emilio Calzadilla, nº 5 - 4th floor
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Tel. 922 290 129 - 922 290 183 ; Fax: 922 244 788
E-mail: teide@oapn.mma.es
Office hours: from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., from Monday to Friday (take a photocopy of your identity card or passport).
However, if you stay the night at the Refuge, and provided you climb before sunrise and return past the cable car station before 9 am, you don't need a permit. You'll need a good torch, preferably one on a head band to leave you hands free.
Read more of Andrea Montgomery's personal account of climbing Mount Teide here ...Copyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Fishermen's Friends: Fiestas del Gran Poder y La Virgen del Carmen in Puerto de la Cruz
On, or around the 16th July, fishermen all over Tenerife hold emotional processions in honour of their patron saint, La Virgen del Carmen. In Puerto de la Cruz these celebrations go overboard, almost literally, when the town honours not only La Virgen, but El Gran Poder de Dios as well. Oh, and San Telmo, the patron saint of Spanish and Portuguese fishermen, is thrown in (metaphorically speaking) for good measure. It's all part of the town's month long festivities, known simply as the July Fiestas.
Merrymaking includes the obligatory crowning of the fiesta queen, traditional Canarian dances, jazz and rock concerts, antique car rallies, sporting events, air displays, the procession of the Gran Poder and the popular 'Sardinada', where the air around the ermita de San Telmo is filled with the aroma of grilled fish and a couple of euros will get you a plate of sardines and a beaker of robust country wine. 
The highlight of the fiestas is the 'embarcación de la Virgen del Carmen' on the 17th of July. If you're a newcomer to Spanish fiestas, don't expect a quiet, reserved affair. This is big, boisterous, wet, noisy and chaotic as well as being good natured, great fun, an unforgettable experience and a spectacle for the senses.
The best way to get into the fiesta swing is to buy a couple of beers and a plate of pinchos (lip-licking seasoned pork kebabs) from a harbour-side stall, chill out and enjoy the fun.
For anyone under twenty, the idea is to get as wet as possible and stay that way all day. This involves holding running water pistol battles, which amuse the older townspeople until a stray squirt hits them in the eye resulting in much use of the word "coño"; jumping, or being thrown into the harbour; and being drenched by basins of water cascading from balconies around the harbour. You don't have to be Einstein to deduce that shorts and t-shirts, preferably over swimming togs is sensible dress for the day. To really fit in, buy a Virgen del Carmen t-shirt from one of the stalls around Plaza del Charco.
By late afternoon finding a space by the harbour is nigh on impossible. If you're not of basketball player proportions, try standing behind a group of Canarian women. As they're normally five foot nothing, or less, it affords a good view.
At around 6.30, La Virgen and St Telmo or, as one Canarian woman mischievously described him to me, 'La Virgen's boyfriend', appear swaying on the shoulders of local fishermen with a motion which represents the rhythm of being on the ocean. The couple pause en route to the harbour for a heartfelt rendition of 'Ave Marie' (tissues definitely required), before being carried through the crowd to the water's edge.
After 'a few squeaky bum moments' as Sir Alex Ferguson might put it, San Telmo and then La Virgen are transferred aboard their brightly decorated boats amidst a frenzy of splashing and chanting of "no pasa nada, la Virgen está embarcada" (which pretty much means, "all's well with the world, the Virgin's safely on board") and taken on their annual sea trip around the bay, ensuring that a good fish supply is guaranteed for another year.
This excerpt was written by Jack Montgomery, freelance writer, photographer and editor of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Read the full feature on the July Fiestas here »Copyright © 2007 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
- Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Featuring: Real Tenerife Island Drives
Meticulous research, excellent writing, plus absolutely stunning photographs, makes Real Tenerife Island Drives the very best on-the-road guide to Tenerife.
After 15 years on the island, I've seen a lot of guide books. Jack and Andrea Montgomery's Real Tenerife Island Drives is one that actually lives up to all it's promise. They've spent three years researching the island's history and culture (as well as travelling it's roads and visiting it's countryside, towns and villages) to produce this beautiful volume and, it shows.
Those wonderful little facts that make it so interesting are not just the usual re-hashed, regurgitated information covered in every other guide book and that, almost invariably, is wrong.
Jack and Andrea kindly sent me a copy of the book to have a look at and it's obvious to me that they have gone back to the source and done original research. Consequently, when you take yourself off one one of their 6 carefully planned trips, you get an accurate and complete guide.
This is kinda important, if you don't want to get lost (mind you that's pretty hard on an island), but the fascinating facts that you'll be rattling off to your friends will open their eyes to Tenerife in an entirely new way.
You'll discover Hidden Depths and Forgotten Roads; places that Francis Drake sacked or or Nelson attacked, but you'll also know how long it takes to get there and where to eat, park and find the loo when you arrive.
There are just the right amount of driving and other tips that you need to know and the book is written in a readable and amusing way, giving you an insight into the island's culture. Such as this on the use of horns:
"Horns are rarely used in aggression; instead used mainly as a greeting to friends, a warning at blind corners on narrow roads, or when Tenerife FC win a match."
To be fair, they don't get much use in that final capacity, so where I live, car horns are also used for other announcements of almost similar importance, such as politicians winning their seats back at elections.
The more I dip into the book, the more impressed I am actually with the depth and detail of the things they have managed to discover - and then condense so beautifully - in just a three year period. You can be sure that you will not miss important items that make your visit truly memorable.
This 66 page, soft-cover, book has all the information you need for exploring Tenerife by car, without bogging you down with too many facts and it's size makes it small enough to carry around or fit in the glove compartment.
More information and ordering, visit, Real Tenerife Island Drives
New Monthly Tenerife Feature
The other piece of good news is that we've pressed the authors of Real Tenerife Island Drives, Jack and Andrea Montgomery, into providing a new monthly feature here at Secret Tenerife, which may be about happenings in a particular month, or excerpts from the routes. (Finally, some good and interesting writing here!) The first of these features is upcoming.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
