Thursday, July 31, 2008
Table Top Sale of items for babies and kids
Saturday, August 2nd, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., Table Top Sale of all kinds of articles for babies and children at the lowest prices.
The sale is being held at Calle Eucaliptus, #15 (Local 3) in Los Cristianos, which is close to the Avenida de Suecia, main shopping street.
(Also, if you're a parent wanting to sell some of your kids' things, there's a phone number on the poster where you can call to book a table.)
Inspiración Tenerife 2008
Another event for your weekend pleasure ...
Inspiración Tenerife 2008 at the Lago Martiánez in Puerto de la Cruz, which is an open air festival taking place from 8 p.m. on Saturday, 2nd August, until 3 a.m. on Sunday morning.
Three stages will be playing soul, alternative and house, by a lineup of DJs that are mostly from Tenerife and the UK - you can read the list here, because it hardly needs translation.
Tickets 10 euros in advance, 12 euros on the door.
Anniversary of Tenerife's Forest Fire
In the recorded history of our islands, we have never seen a natural catastrophe of these proportions said Jose Miguel Perez.
One year ago, on July 30th, 2007, a forest fire was declared, in the Los Campeches area of Icod el Alto in Los Realejos, Tenerife. The alarm was raised at 10 a.m., according to most news reports at the time. By early afternoon, the fire had advanced towards La Guancha and, during the following night, raced westwards across the island, out of control. Ten districts; Los Realejos, San Juan de La Rambla, La Guancha, Icod de Los Vinos, Garachico, El Tanque, Los Silos, Buenavista del Norte, Santiago del Teide and Guía de Isora, 18,800 hectares of land and around 11,000 people were affected.
Maybe there's some press embargo I'm unaware of, but given the magnitude of this ecological disaster, I'm surprised I haven't spotted any reports to mark this date in any of the digital editions of the Canary Islands' media. Are they afraid mentioning it will affect tourism? Surely, avoiding the truth of anything, always backfires in the end. So, if nobody else is going to do it ...
This is not a date I shall forget in a hurry, having been amongst the people who were evacuated last year and I think it wants remembering, because there are still way too many unanswered questions and, despite suspicions, nobody has been arrested or held responsible for the fire in Tenerife.
More than one eyewitness reported that they saw large plumes of smoke as early as 8 a.m. This alone begs the question as to what Tenerife's very own Neros were fiddling at while the island burned for a couple of hours.
Then, after being told that "helicopters can't work at night" (period) ...
On the morning of July 31st last year, we woke to a frightening view like the one to the left (only closer), because, seemingly, not much at all, if anything, had been done to stop the spread of the fire during the night. Maybe the wind prevented using helicopters. Maybe the terrain doesn't help and I'm damn sure all the hanging electrical cables add to the hazards, but helicopters can and do work at night. Think police or border helicopters using infra-red cameras at night to search for suspects, immigrants, etc.
The next night, inexplicably, helicopters could and did operate in Tenerife.
There certainly weren't enough people fighting the fire on the ground either and whatever happened to the firebreaks that the engineer responsible for managing fires in Tenerife's mountains had claimed that they have and that divide the forest into 500 hectare portions (yet 18,800 hectares became affected) is probably a larger mystery than the meaning of life itself.
While travelling across the north of the island from the extreme west to Puerto de la Cruz (roughly a 90 minute journey) we saw smoke like this coming from the mountains, practically all the way along the route ...
Photo: Fire aftermath by darijus We saw whole mountain sides stripped bare by the fire. It cleans, it probably brings benefits too, but it's still sad, it's still ecological disaster and it should not happen. What a difference 4 crucial days made (from green to brown).
Knowing that only a chance change in wind direction is the only reason I escaped the fate of some of the people in Masca who lost their homes ...
Early promises that there would be help for everyone affected were great big untruths. Even those who suffered direct loss and damage; houses burnt and possessions lost only got partial help and slowly at that. Those of us out a few hundred euros, having had to evacuate humans and pets, still suffered post traumatic stress (mostly from knowing you were surrounded by abandoned land, covered with easy to burn material and that nobody gave a flying f... fig about it), got nothing.
As a matter of interest, I'd read that those who lost homes and possessions were paid an initial amount of around 2,500 euros. That was supposed to replace everything except the bricks and mortar? My mother's family were bombed out during World War II and, I remember her telling me, with some indignation, that the family had only got around £200 in compensation from the British government at the time to set up anew. That doesn't seem much at all, even for wartime. However, I did a bit of research on the relative values and purchasing power of money between 1940 and the nearest to the present day, which was 2006. What I found was that to equal that "measly" £200, victims in 2007 would need to have been be paid around £7,500 (11,250 euros), i.e. around 4.5 times more than they received.
It will take 4 years for vegetation to recuperate fully, but this photo of a future fir tree, by José Mesa, is just one of a set of images taken in May 2008, 9 months after the fire. Those, in turn, are part of his collection of images (see map), taken at various intervals and, which show that despite it all, nature is coming though. We must take our hope from that.
NB: Extreme heat (~40C) and high winds had "helped" last years fire along and hindered efforts to fight the fires. Once again, the islands are on pre-alert, which, Shelia in La Palma explains, "means don't panic yet, but check before you go out". Winds of Force 8 on the Beaufort Scale are expected.
Labels: Tenerife Fire
Gloria Estefan tickets go on sale
Tuesday, 10,000 tickets went on sale for Gloria Estefan's concert in Tenerife on September 19th, which, Santa Cruz mayor, Miguel Zerolo is calling "the biggest Latin music show in Tenerife, since the death of Celia Cruz."
Certainly will be and, for me, that makes the choice of venue something of a surprise, because I would have thought that Gloria Estefan could fill a huge football stadium twice over.
However, though that was the original intention, the Heliodoro Rodríguez López (home ground of CD Tenerife) was ruled out because of the replanting of the grass on the pitch.
Gloria Estefan's concert is to be held in the Centro Insular de Atletismo de Tenerife (CIAT) 
, in the Tíncer area of Santa Cruz, right alongside the TF-2 motorway - the connection between the north and south motorways.
This 4,000 capacity, 15.8 million euro sports facility, opened on April 21st, 2007 and designed by local architects, AMP Arquitectos (Artengo, Martín y Pastrana) to resemble a volcanic crater, has also also won architectural recognition.
Tickets to see Gloria Estefan are 40 euros in the stands and 30 euros in general area, from El Corte Inglés, Generaltickets, Tick Tack Ticket in Carrefour, Discos Noda, La Camisoteca and LM Producciones.com - but No Llores (Don't Cry) if they all sell out quickly - that's if a mere 10K haven't gone already.
Labels: Gloria Estefan in Tenerife
Chuck Berry in Tenerife
US Rock and Roll legend Chuck Berry, 81, performed in a concert held in Santa Cruz de Tenerife on March 28, 2008. Chuck Berry singer, songwriter, and guitarist who was one of the most popular and influential performers in rhythm-and-blues and rock-and-roll music in the 1950s, '60s, and '70s.
Here, you'll find several videos from the concert and more images from the Chuck Berry concert in Tenerife here ...
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Santa Cruz' new Plaza de España
Photos of the new Plaza de España in Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz, designed by Swiss architects, Herzog & de Meuron, have been appearing since the inauguration last week. Reactions seem to be mixed, mostly at the extremes of either love or hate, which is probably exactly what is to be expected.
Anyway, the geyser (a spurt like a volcanic heat source would do, not to be confused with this geezer) is working now and the lake is filled, though some people have said that there are enough lights strung up over it to make it seem like there is always a party going on. You mean there isn't? :)
Here's a video of the inauguration on July 24th, complete with suits (thankfully short excerpts of speeches), lights, geyser, fireworks y todo ...
There are various views here, one from the other side (with older Santa Cruz buildings behind the vegetation camouflaged kiosk building). Here's a view at dusk, which shows the lights reflecting on the lake and another, that shows them in darkness. Another angle across the lake to the gardens.
One interesting feature that I'd not seen mentioned before, although I knew that the discovery of the remains of the San Cristóbal castle had caused alterations to the original plans, are the black lines that appear in these images; here, here and here. Those lines trace the old castle walls.
The underground grotto beneath the plaza, where a section of the castle wall has been preserved, will not now be able to be visited until September.
Perfectly predictable: there are numerous photos showing people paddling, walking or playing in the water. The caption below this photo ponders on how clean the lake will stay during Carnaval. Colin Kirby says, he looks forward to "seeing how many people can end up in the lake at Carnaval time."
Quite a lot of them, I should imagine, until it's fenced off. :-)
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Tenerife for pharologists (lighthouse bagging)
Faro de Teno, Tenerife (with La Gomera in the background) Photo: ahisgett
Oh, I couldn't resist ... I spotted a note at the bottom of Colin Kirby's post about tram spotting in Tenerife, where he says, "Coming soon on hobby corner, Lighthouse bagging." Er what? Obviously, having lived on, if not under, a rock for 16 years, this new fetish hobby had passed me by. I had to check it out.
Punta de Abona Lighthouse. Tenerife, Canary Islands. Photo: Gabor AmbrozyAnd, surprise, surprise, it really is to do with lighthouses - well, you can never be sure - and Princess Anne is a regular anorak wearer and "champion pharologist", apparently.
The term makes sense, because the word for lighthouse in Spanish (substituting the PH for an F always), is "Faro." So, here to assist Colin with his future lighthouse bagging exploits and for you too if you're similarly afflicted enthused, is a list of Lighthouses of the Canary Islands.
That page kindly informs us that navigational lights in Spain are regulated at national level by the Comisíon de Faros and that the lighthouses of Tenerife are operated by the Autoridad Portuaria de Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
View Larger MapPharology tourists (a.k.a. lighthouse bagging holidaymakers) have quite a few lighthouses - I count 8 sites, but some have 2 structures - to bag on the island of Tenerife at:
Punta de Abona, Punta de Rasca, Punta de Teno, Buenavista, Puerto de la Cruz, Punta del Hidalgo, Punta de Anaga and Santa Cruz de Tenerife Muelle Sur ("Farola del Mar")
Not all are working.
Faro Punta de Teno
Punta Teno Lighthouse.
Photo: Liam Quinn.Most highly recommended, is to take a trip out to the lighthouse at Punta de Teno, Tenerife's most westerly point (clearly, Jack and Andrea Montgomery have already bagged this one too, in swimming cozzies, if not anoraks), where you can see the North side and the South side of the island at once from out on the headland.
The view from Punta de Teno lighthouse towards the Los Gigantes cliffs is one of the most spectacularly breathtakingly beautiful sites in the whole world (IMHO), as are some of the sunsets that can be witnessed from there.
So is the spectacular road along the cliff edge (again and another) and through a long, dark, damp tunnel to get there. But beware, it is not always open, it can be hairy - if not downright comical - and there is talk of them closing it all together and laying on buses from Buenavista.
Here are more images of Faros de Canarias
The province of Santa Cruz, of which Tenerife is just a part, if you add in the islands of La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Palma, offer even more delights.
Faro de Orchilla, El Hierro
Probably the most famous lighthouse to bag on these islands, is the Faro de Orchilla, in Frontera, El Hierro. It's an important lighthouse, because it was once the most westerly point of the "known world" and, from the 17th Century, was used to mark the zero meridian, until the British moved it to Greenwich in the 1880s.
Other types of lighthouses in Tenerife
There's the Faro Chill Art (disco), where, obviously, pharologists and other hobbyists go to relax; purely decorative lighthouse structures on the island, such as this lighthouse in Tenerife, this which appears to be at Fañabe and you'll even find the odd temporary lighthouse appearing on the backdrop to staging at the fiestas.
But I guess I should end here with something by the Lighthouse Family. :)
Puerto de la Cruz' crazy Embarkation Tuesday
From these images, it's possible to get some sense of Puerto de la Cruz' crazy "Embarkation Tuesday", as it looks like most the town and not a few visitors all join in to push the boat out, jump in the water, splash around ...
Reuters say (as did the police estimates, if memory serves) that about 25,000 people attended the boat procession of the Virgin of Carmen (Virgen del Carmen), the protector of fisherman, on July 15, 2008.
More images of the July Fiestas, Puerto de la Cruz, The Virgen del Carmen and of the Fiestas del Carmen in Puerto de la Cruz
Monday, July 28, 2008
What's on in Tenerife 28 July - 3 Aug
A mainly musical lineup this week, starting with tonight, Monday, July 28th, when three groups; Lagareta, Alabama Dixieland Jazz Band and La Otra Habana bring the Fiestas del Carmen in Los Realejos to a fitting climax. The show kicks off in the Plaza de San Agustín at 9.00 p.m. Entrance FREE.
Mumes 2008 (Festival of Fusion Music)
The Festival de Músicas Mestizas (Festival of Fusion Music), MUMES 2008 which began on, July 22nd runs to Saturday, August 2nd. This is the 5th year of the festival, which is also billed as being "for tolerance." Among artists appearing at the main events on Friday and Saturday, are La Laguna based reggae band, Jony's Moon.
Details and tickets (in Spanish) from the festival's website, General Tickets or El Corte Inglés
Festival de Candelaria 2008
The 13th Candelaria Song Contest is being held, in Candelaria, Tenerife. As well as the performances by entrants to the contest, there are concerts by Big Band, Kike Perdomo y Esther Ovejero (July 29th), Can' Rock II; Altraste, Keyko and Downstairs (July 30th), El Puma (July 31st), Monica Naranjo (August 1st) and, topping the bill on Saturday, August 2nd is two-time Latin Grammy Award-winning Spanish singer and actress, Rosario Flores. All concerts will be in the Plaza de Candelaria. First two are free, tickets for three final nights, from El Corte Inglés, Discos Noda or General Tickets. Program: Download PDF.
Classical Music in the Open Air
The Casa Del Vino, "La Baranda" wine museum, housed in a beautiful 17th Century farmhouse in El Sauzal, is holding their 12th annual Circle of Concerts in the open air in their central patio. The concerts are every Wednesday night at 8.30 p.m., until August 27th and you can download the program here (PDF), which has a full list, with artist bios in Spanish, English and German. On Wednesday, July 30th, the concert is by the Trío Chromos (consisting of piano, cello and trumpet), from Gran Canaria with a jazz inspired repertoire. Entrance is 13 euros per person, details of how and where to book in the program.
Rubén Blades in Tenerife
Panamanian born salsa artist, songwriter, lawyer, actor, Latin jazz musician, and politician, Rubén Blades (website), is in concert on Sunday, August 3rd at the International Fairs and Congress Centre, in Santa Cruz, as part of the Festival Internacional de Salsa del Atlántico 2008. Tickets from 18 euros at; Base Deportes Salud, El Corte Inglés, Sonora Discos and General Tickets.
Often mispronounced the Spanish way, Blades is an Anglo-Saxon surname, originally from the U.K.
More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar
How Tenerife avoided another conquest
"Actors re-enact on Friday, July 26, 2008 in Santa Cruz de Tenerife the naval battle and disembarkment in which the infantry of the Canary islands prevented the conquest of the Canary islands in 1797 by English hero Horacio Nelson. Horacio Nelson lost his right arm in the battle."
Rosa Rodríguez, writing in Canarias 7 suggests that, if Nelson had travelled through time 211 years, he wouldn't have dared try to take Santa Cruz this time, because on Friday, not only were General Gutiérrez' men waiting for him, but also an enthusiastic (bloodthirsty, maybe?) crowd of 3,000 spectators.
Nelson probably shouldn't have tried to take the city 211 years ago, but it's a good job he couldn't time travel, because he might have been able to go back and stop himself before making such a huge error and then there wouldn't have been anything to re-enact ... which seeing how it all turned out in the photos - like a better Hollywood movie - would have been a shame.
Here's the story told again, in more pictures: the troops form, preparing the defences, the English arrive, the struggle begins, observing the battle, defending the castle and the troops parade after the battle.
But I reckon the best bit is where one of the readers commenting here says that this same Oracio (sic, he appears to have lost and H now, as well as an arm) Nelson defeated the Armada. There's another wee point of logic I could pick up on in their statement, in that it couldn't have been a very "Invincible Armada" if it got vinced, I mean defeated, but never mind that part ...
(The writer could have meant the Other Armada of 1779, I suppose, except I'm pretty sure that isn't what they were referring to. And they probably didn't mean the Armada Sur of expat football supporters either. :)
Anyway, if Nelson had trounced the Armada (of 1588) and then lost in Tenerife (in 1797), rightly, says the following comment, not only would Santa Cruz be celebrating victory, but also the longest known life of a human being! :)
What the other reports failed to mention is that Nelson also got his own tram in Santa Cruz, to mark the 211th anniversary of his defeat. Wonder what he'd make of that if he time travelled forward 211 years? Colin Kirby was out, in an anorak, spotting that and he was there on Saturday morning too, to see the period costumed, military parades and got some photos.
At the end of the day, Santa Cruz was, once again, saved from the tyranny of British rule (at least for a couple of hundred years until the "invasion of the beaches") and they all lived happily everafter. It's all 'armless fun, isn't it?
See more images of the re-enactment of the Battle of Santa Cruz
Living under a cloud - Pinolere
Despite its stunning location; bordered by barrancos on both sides and backed by the vast, sheer, pine clad face of the cumbre, it’s difficult to get a good photo of Pinolere due to the near-constant presence of the sea of clouds which hovers above the settlement.
Known by the locals as living under ‘panza de burro’ (belly of the donkey) because every time they look up they see grey, the cloud is a legacy of the trade winds that frequent the La Orotava Valley. It may be a nuisance when you’re looking for clear blue skies to light up your photographs, and Pinolere is unlikely to knock Playa de las Américas off its pole position for Brits coming to Tenerife in search of a suntan, but for the 700 or so inhabitants of Pinolere the cloud is a friend and ally. Along with lower temperatures, it brings moisture and humidity, essential ingredients for abundant growth.
For centuries the community of Pinolere has been virtually self-sufficient, producing everything it needed from the land; potatoes, corn, wheat, grapes, rice, rye and cane all thrive here. Goats, cows and pigs grow fat on the rich grazing while the forests produce pine needles for their bedding; the trees produce tea and chestnut wood, firewood, charcoal, building material and resin. Once prevalent over much of the ‘medianías’ or central lowlands of Tenerife, the houses of Pinolere were until recently constructed of dry stone, roofed with chestnut wood entwined with branches and then thatched with straw.
As a result, Pinolere is a community of craftsmen and women; basket weavers, carpenters, iron workers, embroiderers, potters, stone workers and charcoal makers.
Pinolere Craft Fair
The intoxicating smell of cakes assails our nostrils as we saunter past the opening stalls groaning under the weight of sugar, almond and syrup coated ‘dulces’ , sweets and chocolates. Then comes mojos, honeys, jams, herbs and spices, each stall more inviting than the next. The wine stalls are particularly popular, small cups dispensing samples from individual cosechas.
Following the winding path as it gently climbs from one level to the next the stalls change to wood carvings, ceramics and toys. Small children pull brightly painted little tin carts on string from a stall that’s doing a brisk trade. The noise and bustle of the crowd is augmented by shrill screeches produced by water filled whistles from another stall.
Sitting within thatched, open sided huts, rows of elderly men and women are weaving cane strips into baskets, hats and trays.
In an open clearing by the refreshment stand, an elderly man in a beret is spinning a top and making it dance, flipping it from his toe to his head and back again to the delight and applause of a small crowd.
On a stage, a group of musicians are demonstrating traditional Canarian musical instruments through the ages and getting a group of children to reproduce the sound each one makes.
Some of the thatched buildings house exhibitions; in one there’s a history of the little hats worn on the side of Canarian women’s heads and in another, a collection of avant-garde handbags made from cane and leather, each one a work of art.
The stalls seem to go on for ever. There are clothes and shoes, dried flower arrangements, beautiful ceramics, dolls houses, Tiffany lamps, glassware and ornamental stoneworks.
And far from being dull, old fashioned, “why-on-earth-did-I-buy-that” when you get it home sort of products, there are the most beautiful and modern designs of ornaments, accessories, furniture, shoes and clothes that fuse craftsmanship and traditional materials with contemporary colour and design.
In short, it’s a revelation and an Aladdin’s cave of early Christmas presents.
This year the Pinolere Crafts Fair will be held over 5th, 6th and 7th September in Pinolere in La Orotava.
As well as the annual crafts fair, there’s a permanent museum housed in thatched buildings which recreates various aspects of local life. Open every Tuesday to Sunday, 10.00 -14.00; entrance €2 adults, €1 children. (Map)
Copyright © 2008 Real Tenerife Island Drives. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be copied or reproduced without the written permission of Real Tenerife Island Drives.
Lying on a beach all day every day might make for a relaxing holiday, but memories of it fade as quickly as your sun tan. Island Drives is aimed at travellers who want to experience the real essence of Tenerife, not just its pools and beaches. If you want an unforgettable holiday as opposed to a good one, Real Tenerife Island Drives will make the difference.
Labels: Real Tenerife Island Drives
The Scent of Tenerife Grass
For the first time this season, curiously, this report informs us, Tenerife football team, CD Tenerife's home ground at the Heliodoro Rodríguez López stadium is to have grass on the pitch that has the scent of the island.
The grass has been getting a complete transplant, between July 16th and 25th, with turf cultivated specially in Tenerife. The seeds were sewn in February in the districts of Geneto in La Laguna and in Tegueste.
Eight months later, the mature grass, cut into 8 meter strips, was transported to Santa Cruz and the puzzle put back together again.
For geeks who like figures, or if you're thinking of replanting a soccer pitch any time soon, you may like to know that during the process:
- Hardisson Jardinería used 1,400 turfs of 8 meters in length and 70 centimetres wide. (A football pitch measures, approximately, 105 x 70 meters and they need extra for the bits round the sides and ends.)
- The transfer from Geneto and Tegueste was made in a lorry with capacity for 14 rolls of turf; 7 pallets holding two turfs each.
- They made 100 journeys.
- At least 7 technicians were commissioned at the stadium to place the lawn (we'll resist suggesting that it was one to work and 6 to watch.)
The new pitch will be ready to play on in 2 weeks.
All that's left, they say, is for Tenerife to get promoted to the Primera! Let's hope the new scent of Tenerife grass works like aromatherapy then. :)
Source and more images: Césped con olor a Tenerife
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Puerto de la Cruz Air Show
This Sunday, July 27th, as part of the Fiestas de Julio 2008 (July Fiestas), Puerto de la Cruz has been celebrating its XXVI Festival Internacional de Aeromodelismo y Aeronáutica (26th International Aeronautical and Aeromodelling Festival). All you have to do is decide which are models and which are real. Click here to see more images of the air show ...
Photo: XXVI Festival Internacional de Aeromodelismo y Aeronáutica - 7, originally uploaded by Alejandro Amador.Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Day of Traditions in Chirche
The village of Chirche (map) is 3 kilometres from the town of Guia de Isora, in the western part of the island of Tenerife and preserves the typical traditional architecture of the south - nowadays turned into rural tourist accommodation, such as the Casa de Abuelo (it means Grandpa’s Home) - and serves as a living museum.
This weekend, the quiet village is to celebrate its 8th annual Day of Traditions, where locals carry out jobs, do household chores and play children's games typical of the village from the first half of the twentieth century.
From 10.30 a.m. on Sunday, 27th July, visitors can see how the rural inhabitants thresh wheat, made rustic tejas (roof tiles) in the old tile ovens, toasted the grain, or ground almonds, as well as other domestic tasks, such as sewing, doing laundry in the public washtubs, or bringing water from the community tap.
Prior to that, on Saturday, 26th July, from 7 p.m., there's various workshops of folklore and dance, as well as traditional sports and games, which continue until 9.30, when there will be a showing of a documentary film.
More images of Él Día de las Tradiciones
How to get there: the 417 bus goes from Los Cristianos to Guía de Isora, via Playa de las Américas, roughly every 60 minutes at weekends. From Guía de Isora to Chirche (and back), there is a bus 491, but this does not (normally) operate on Saturdays, Sundays or weekends (whether they might lay any on special for this event, I can't say). If you're feeling energetic, you might walk, otherwise, there are sure to be taxis in Guía de Isora.
Santa Cruz set to repel the English, again
... with a budget of 240,000 euros (over £190,000). Friday, 25th July is the 211th Anniversary of Santa Cruz' defeat of Horacio Nelson and Tenerife's capital is to commemorate or celebrate (the latter, I think, is more apt) the date with a reenactment of the 1797 naval battle and English landings.
The fun starts, in the area of the Castillo Negro 
(Black Castle) (alongside the rather more modern day Auditorio de Tenerife), at 12.00 mid-day and, unlike real battles, will last for just one hour. 130 people are taking part in the reenactment, with the city being defended, once again, by the battalion of Canarian infantry, under the orders of General Gutiérrez.
British retreat and victory for Santa Cruz
The following day, Saturday, 26th July, at 11.30 a.m., sees a military parade from the Plaza Weyler to the Plaza de España, then from 8.30 p.m. there's to be a further recreation, this time in the streets of the old town, remembering how Santa Cruz' population succeeded in causing the English troops to retreat. That will be taking place in the area around the bridge over the Barranco de Santos, the Iglesia de La Concepción (church) and the Calle La Noria in the old part of the city.
Both reenactments are to be directed by Teodoro Ríos, who will ensure careful attention is paid to historical detail. Costumes are under the watchful eye of José Carlos Iribarren, who worked on the film Alatriste and, the special effects (as well as fireworks during the Verbena de La Victoria (Victory Celebration Dance)) will be provided by Los Realejos firework firm, Hermanos Toste.
In addition, 75 reenacters have been invited from various points of the Spanish mainland, from England and from Holland.
You can even download a "souvenir" program of the events here (PDF)
an entire festive week ...
(We could say that the celebrations continue, as Santa Cruz had already paid homage to the French involvement in defending the city, in which 2 French lives were lost, by celebrating the National Day of France on July 14th.)
On July 21st, in the Museo Militar de Almeida (images, more pics - the museum's highlight is the famous 'Tigre' canon which, according to tradition, injured Admiral Horacio Nelson during his failed attempt to occupy Tenerife on July 25th 1797, resulting in the amputation of his right arm) was the presentation of a new book and a conference on the events of 1797.
On July 22nd, again in the Military Museum, is another conference, centring on the personalities involved on July 25th, along with a presentation of a new book by local historian Daniel García Pulido, as well as a showing of the rather ominously titled film, La isla de las cabezas cortadas (Cutthroat Island.)
On July 23rd, it's the turn of historian, Ronald Brighouse to give a talk centred on Nelson and the Royal Navy. Another film follows.
On July 24th, from 10 a.m. will be a public reading of books related to the events. In the evening, the British flag captured that night in 1797 will be (re)presented, having been restored.
On July 25th after the reenactment of the sea battle and the English landings at midday, at 7.30 p.m., mass will be celebrated in the La Concepción church, with a procession around the local streets in honour of Santiago Apóstol (Saint James) and a floral offering made to the tomb of General Gutiérrez.
Also on July 25th there's an exhibition of reproductions of paintings that recreate these events, as well as some military paraphernalia that is part of the municipal heritage. They're also studying the possibility of installing 14 commemorative milestones along the capital's coast. These monoliths, with their corresponding plaques would be placed at strategic points where the defence of the city was cemented (and they're outside the 240k budget.)
The town hall is to award silver medals to all babies born on Friday.
July 26th 11.30 a.m. military parade "of the epoch" (another recreation of the 18th Century) from the Plaza Weyler to the Plaza de España. At 7 p.m. various military bands will parade through the city's streets. From 8.30 p.m. will be the recreation of the street battles in the old part of town and, from 10 p.m., the party starts proper, with a Verbena de La Victoria (Victory Celebration Knees Up), at which attendees will wear 18th Century costumes also.
And, finally, on July 27th, the festive week (their words) closes with a concert by the Unidad de Música de la Subinspección del Mando de Canarias (a military band), in the Plaza del Príncipe (where you can get a good Barraquito.)
Via: this post at the Flickers Tenerife group.
Official inauguration of the Plaza de España
On Thursday, 24th July, the newly redesigned Plaza de España will get its official inauguration. (More pics.)
Then, from July 25th, residents of Santa Cruz (and presumably visitors too) will be able to visit the underground remains of one of the walls of the Castillo de San Cristóbal, which were found during the remodelling works.
Santa Cruz grew up around the San Cristóbal castle, which was built in 1575 and demolished in 1928, during which time it formed the axis of the city's defensive system and played a large part in military events on the island, including the invasion attempt by British forces on July 25th, 1797.
Photo: Salva.ToNight from the Secret Tenerife (Pool)
Santa Cruz from the air
An absolutely amazing view of Santa Cruz and the Anaga Mountains from a plane. Best seen Large (1024 x 683) or Original (3456 x 2304).
Photo: ahisgett
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
This Summer's Trends in Tenerife
So much for the island's new upmarket, 5 star hotel image, as Europa press report that bookings this summer reveal that tourists are maintaining their length of stay, but are opting for cheaper hotels.
No surprises there. People are looking for ways to stretch the budget in the current climate.
If you're watching the pennies too, take a look at Andrea Montgomery's article on Getting Your Pound's Worth of Tenerife. One of the best ways, being to get out of the hotel complex (so a cheap one does the trick if all you need is a place to sleep.) Getting out of the resort areas is the best way to avoid "special tourist prices" (go and see something real instead), though they probably aren't as high as the prices for tourist attractions in London.
What's London got to do with it? Well, likewise, Londonist say, "... it's only a rip off if your idea of a good holiday involves posing with waxworks of Kylie or poking about Queen Liz's smalls." In Tenerife, you'll only think prices are high if you stick to things specially laid on for a (voluntarily) captive clientele.
Tourist numbers still up, despite economic woes
Tourist activities in the Canary Islands generated 12,007 million euros (around £95.3 million) in 2007, providing almost a third (28.3%) of the islands' gross domestic product (GDP) and 33.2% of the region's employment.
At the same time, we learn that the number of foreign tourists received in Spain during the first half of 2008 was 26.6 million, a 2.6 percent increase on the same period last year. The Canary Islands was again the second most visited region of Spain (after Catalonia), with 4.7 million tourists in total.
The United Kingdom continues to be where the largest number of visitors hail from, sending 7.3 million tourists (27.5% of Spain's total) to the country so far this year. Germany is in second place, sending 4.7 million visitors.
Tourists Become Increasingly Unplugged
Interestingly, the article tells us that, between January and June, for the majority of international visitors - 18.4 million of them (69.4%) - the tendency is slightly increased (by 7%) for visitors to avoid packaged holidays, but to organise their own trips and book hotels, flights and extras separately.
Nevertheless, 20minutos report that Tenerife has dropped to 7th place on the British tourists' list of Top 10 holiday destinations this year.
Again, looking for something more economical this year:
In top slot is Dalaman (the airport gateway to Turkey's south west corner and to resorts such as Marmaris, Fethiye and Dalyan), followed by Mallorca, Crete, Bodrum, the Algarve, Cyprus, Tenerife, Costa Blanca, Sharm el-Sheikh and, Rhodes.
That works during the summer, whilst those destinations offer good weather, but when you want a getaway in winter, you'll find that the Canary Islands are the nearest and cheapest destination that offers sunshine. You'll be back!
Monday, July 21, 2008
What's on in Tenerife 21 - 27 Jul
To be, or not to be ...
... among the audience to see this new review of William Shakespeare's most famous play, HAMLET, directed by Juan Diego Botto (IMDB), at the Guimerá Theatre in Santa Cruz. There are two performances, on Friday, 25th July and Saturday, 26th July.
Naturally, it will be in Spanish, but either you know the play and will still be able to follow, even if you don't know the language, or, if you're like me and don't understand a word of Shakespeare even in English, then it will make no difference whatsoever and can be enjoyed on a purely aesthetic level. On the other hand, I could never understand the offside rule in football, until someone explained it to me in Spanish, so it may have the effect of adding clarity. :)
One Thousand and One Nights
In similar vein, on Saturday, 26th July and Sunday, 27th July, catch one of just two performances of Las Mil Noches y Una Noche (One Thousand and One Nights) at the Auditorio de Tenerife in Santa Cruz.
It's an adaptation of the legend of The Arabian Nights "under the attentive gaze" of Peruvian writer, Mario Vargas Llosa, who also plays the part of King Shahryar, alongside Aitana Sánchez-Gijón as Queen Scheherazade.
Fiesta de Santiago - Saint James Patron Saint of Spain
July 25th, which falls on Friday, is the day of Saint James, the Patron Saint of Spain. It is principally celebrated in Tenerife in Santa Cruz, Los Realejos, Puerto de Güímar and many cake shops, in the incarnation of the almond, Tarta de Santiago.
July 25th is also the Fiestas de Santiago Apóstol in Los Realejos, the annual fiestas honouring the town's co-patron and its foundation in 1496. And the Fiestas de Santa Ana in Candelaria, heralding the start of the annual Festival de Candelaria, which combines a major local song contest.
Also on July 25th, the Tenerife capital, Santa Cruz, celebrates the anniversary of its famous and proud victory over English Admiral, Horacio Nelson, whose failed attempt on Santa Cruz, on July 25th, 1797, cost him his right arm.
Santa Cruz Celebrates Victory Over The English
II Feria Insular Ovino Caprina (2nd Island Sheep and Goat Fair)
And, if none of the foregoing cultural events takes your fancy, well why not pop along to the Área Recreativa (Recreation Area) in La Laguna for the 2nd Island Sheep and Goat Fair on Sunday, 27th July. We reckon you're likely to find cute things like woolly sheep and hairy goats there.
More July fiestas in Tenerife (4 pages of them), can be found here.
More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar
CelebAir flights to Tenerife
Holiday Extras report that a group of - as yet unnamed - celebrities began their rigorous six-week training program last week and, between August 29th and October 10th, will be serving the likes of us on holiday flights to destinations such as Ibiza, Cyprus and Tenerife as part of new reality TV show, CelebAir.
The 10 celebrities will be put through their paces by Monarch Airlines, writes Lee Hayhurst in the Travel Trade Gazette.
A Monarch plane has been rebranded and will operate in CelebAir colours. Celebrities will take on roles across a range of airline activities including cabin crew, ticket desk and airport check in.
The CelebAir flights are from Gatwick only and to Tenerife appear to be every Friday from Friday, 29th August to Friday, 3rd October, incl. (except Friday, 19th September, when no flight is listed.)
CelebAir will be screened on ITV2 in the UK this autumn and hosted by Angellica Bell (pictured). Channel controller Zai Bennett comments that "This definitely isn't a show for work-shy celebrities, we're taking on a real plane, with real passengers with real holidays". Do you get the feeling that not a few of them will be shocked by how hard work is in the "real world?" :)
We'll be keeping an eye on reports - particularly for any news that names the celebrity victims participants. Meanwhile, if you manage to get on one of the flights and do a bit of celebrity spotting, we want to hear from you.
Join an exclusive group of passengers, find out about tickets here.
Gloria Estefan in Tenerife
Mojo Canario, alerted us back in May that Gloria Estefan was to be playing in Tenerife in the latter half of Septemeber this year. Yesterday, Canarias24horas reported (Via: The Tenerife Forum) that the Cuban singer will be performing on the island on Friday, September 19th.
And, as final confirmation, that information too is clearly displayed - 19 Septiembre - Tenerife - on the flyer, on the front page of Gloria's own 90 Millas website. So we'll take it the date is official then.
Still to be confirmed is the venue, although there was speculation that it could be CD Tenerife's football ground, the Heliodoro Rodríguez López stadium in Santa Cruz. Watch this space!
(90 Millas = 90 miles: the distance from Cuba to the United States. Tenerife, by comparison, lies a bit over 200km (125 miles) off northwest Africa.)
You should be able to get Gloria Estefan Tickets online here
Labels: Gloria Estefan in Tenerife
Services for the Disabled
Thanks to Gabriel at Blog Tenerife, who points out that Spanish Airports' authority, AENA have published the guide, "Spanish Airports Assistance for persons with reduced mobility", as well as the deaf or blind. The biggest take-away is that you need to book the services with enough notice.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Concentracion del Djembe at Las Teresitas
According to the Bamana people in Mali (via Wikipedia), the name of the djembe comes directly from the saying "Anke dje, anke be" which literally translates to "everyone gather together" and that is exactly what the organizers are attempting at the 1ª Concentracion del Djembe - Las Teresitas (1st Djembe Gathering) being held at the Las Teresitas beach, near Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz tomorrow, Saturday, July 19th.
Notices promoting the event say that, "We're trying to unite the largest number of djembe players in history."
Or, you could say they intend to *beat* a record using the rhythm method. (Well, you could say that, except you'd be justifiably shot for crimes involving too many lame puns.)
It also says that it doesn't matter if you don't have a djembe (easily fixed, as there are an unlimited number of people willing to sell you one), you can bring along any other percussion instrument. Just be there, from 8 p.m., to pass the evening with music and perfect diversion (the leaves may give a clue. :)
Festival Guayota 2008 in Garachico
Whilst we've already published a list of some of the highlights for this week and weekend, another couple of events popped up on our radar that simply could not be ignored ...
First item on the agenda is the Festival Guayota 2008, that's being held on the esplanade at the port in Garachico.
From 3 p.m. on Saturday, July 19th, there will be various activities going on including inflatable, bouncy castles and archery. That's what caught our eye really. How advisable is it to have those two activities side by side?
Let's hope they have some rubber repair kits handy. :)
Then from 9 p.m. there will be a rock concert with singer-songwriter, Agustín Ramos, Autodate Folk Band and the local band from Garachico, who, for some reason, go by the very (un)typical Garachico name of The Warners.
Via: InfoIcod Noticias
Mind you the word Autodate is a Canarian mispronunciation of an English term "out of date". So the story goes, some seed potatoes imported from England had a label announcing that they were "out of date". The labourers didn't understand this and took it to be the type of potato, hence there is now a type of potatoes grown on the island of Tenerife, called Autodate!
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Vive la Révolution in Santa Cruz
Obviously, short of an excuse for a celebration or two of it's own (if you've read anything of these pages or know the island, then you'll know how far my tongue is in my cheek), Europa Press report that the Tenerife capital has been celebrating the Día Nacional de Francia (National Day of France), what English speakers insist on calling Bastille Day, but which the French, in all their understated elegance, simply refer to as quatorze juillet (14 July).
There probably wasn't any storming of Santa Cruz' own fortifications, the 17th Century Castillo Negro , nor Tenerife II Prison, however, Santa Cruz' mayor, Miguel Zerolo, was to preside over commemorations taking place in council chambers, beginning with municipal band playing the overture from French composer Bizet's opera, Carmen, which, of course, is set in Spain.
After that, Carlos Castro, president of the Alliance Fraçaise / Alianza Francesa (French Alliance) in Santa Cruz, was to speak, before Daniel Alonso, professor of Applied Physics from the University of La Laguna was to give a dissertation on science in France. Eric Landrau, the French Consul in Santa Cruz was also due to be there and the event closed with more music from the municipal band, this time from the opéra comique, Madame Favart, by Jacques Offenbach, before the National Anthems of both France and Spain. Fascinating stuff!
Mais, j'ne comprend pas pourquoi.
Actually, I do understand why and it's all "our fault" (the British) again.
According to this article about these celebrations from last year, it harks back to an historic relationship that was formed between "The Gallic Giant" (France) and the island of Tenerife in 1795, rooted in the fact that French soldiers had helped defend the port of Santa Cruz when it was attacked by the English troops under Nelson's orders. The French suffered two fatalities.
Tenerife also claims tenuous links with France through La Laguna born surrealist, Óscar Domínguez, who moved to Paris when he was 21.
The city of Santa Cruz will be celebrating their victory in that 'armless event from the French Revolutionary Wars: seeing off the English, next week.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
What's on in Tenerife 14-20 July
This week the big events are Puerto de la Cruz' July Fiestas. On Sunday, July 13th, their Procession of The Gran Poder celebrated it's 114th year of "history and devotion".
On Monday, July 14th, according to this schedule of events, the town will hold it's annual "Sardinada" or sardine fest, where somewhat more than a couple of the little fishies will be grilled and served to the thronging thousands, simply with wine. Well, with quite a lot of wine, usually.
On Tuesday, July 15th, you can witness the decidedly frenzied (in appearance only, of course) procession of the Virgen del Carmen and San Telmo, where these icons get their annual "trip round the bay" in a sea procession, or embarcación - an important ceremony to bless local fishermen.
Read more about these July Fiestas here in The Virgin del Carmen Puts to Sea, Fishermen’s Friends, or this piece about Fiestas del Gran Poder y La Virgen del Carmen in Puerto de la Cruz. There's a further procession of the Virgen del Carmen, on land in Puerto de la Cruz, on Wednesday, July 16th.
On Saturday, July 19th, at the Casa de la Aduana (Old Customs House), Puerto de la Cruz, you can see Anne Peters (MySpace) in concert with her band from 9 p.m. Born in Trinidad and brought up in London, Anne now lives in Tenerife and appears regularly on local television in the Canary Islands. She has worked with Billy Ocean, Boney M and many others.
(Though, performing "No Woman, No Cry" with Pepe Benavente, is I reckon, one of the strangest combinations anyone could have ever imagined!)
More July fiestas in Tenerife (4 pages of them), can be found here.
On Wednesday, July 16th until Sunday, July 20th, is the Tenerife Lan Party 2k8 at the Centro Internacional de Ferias y Congresos de Tenerife (International Fairs and Congress Center), Santa Cruz. Among guests this year is Puerto de la Cruz born, computer special effects expert, Daniel Ferreira, famous for his work on films such as; The Incredible Hulk (2008), Spider-Man 3 (2007), The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe (2005). Both MojoCanario and BlogTenerife have more details (in Spanish.)
Sunday, July 13th until Sunday, July 20th: Professional Windsurf Camp in El Médano, where Brazilian, World Wavesailing Champion, Kauli Seadi, is to be one of the monitors at the training camp.
Also on Saturday, July 19th, there's the International Folklore Festival in Las Galletas. Or you could try the Spanish Kickboxing Championships and European Thai Boxing Championships, being held simultaneously at the Pabellón Pancho Camurria in Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz.
More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Study says Tenerife breakfast cheapest
Breakfast in Tenerife's capital costs an average of 3.06 euros. In San Sebastián, it's more than double, at an average of 6.25 euros. But you're not going to get "Full English Breakfast" or even tortilla (pictured) for that.
Prices were compared at cafes in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Madrid, Seville, Málaga, Las Palmas, Córdoba and San Sebastián, of a breakfast consisting of coffee or tea with milk, two slices of toast and an orange juice.
Friday, July 11, 2008
Do we really need headlights during the day?
We're certainly not surprised that Britain's Daily Mail picked up on this issue and reported (erroneously), in tones of panic that a new EU directive has been agreed, which will require vehicle headlights to be switched on whilst driving during daylight hours.
The European Commission says that this is a Euromyth and that:
"The European Commission is looking into ways of improving road safety and at equipping new cars with ecologically-friendly daytime lights - two separate issues. There is a commitment by EU member states to equip new vehicles with ecologically friendly daytime lights , though having such lights would not, of course, force people to use them."
The successful results in testing of daytime running lamps were obtained in Scandinavian countries. You know, those northern ones where they have part of the winter where both night and day is in total darkness.
In the Canary Islands, at a latitude of 28 degrees north - only just above the tropics and therefore with only a couple of hours difference between the length of day in summer and winter and, other than in odd inclement weather conditions, has light conditions that generally lead to photographic overexposure - such a measure seems absolutely pointless, at best.
At worst, at any location, having lights on during the day on cars and other vehicles, removes any previous safety advantage for motorcycles.
Nevertheless, apparently, in wonderfully similar fearmongering style, Spanish TV station, Antena 3 has also taken up the daytime lighting cause as part of their Ponle Freno (Put the brakes on) initiative.
I've not seen the public service ads myself, but Charlie at Canarias Bruta writes scathingly about the ill-considered "viral marketing" campaign. He also says that he has no intention of putting his lights on during the day and says that every time he comes across someone who does have their lights on, will say out loud, "Oh look, another dickhead who watches Antena 3".
Just how many road deaths?
Anyone who watches Spanish TV will know about the incessant obsession the media has with giving road accident body counts. It used to be at the end of major puentes (holiday weekends). Then it became constant, as in "lo que var" the weekend (so far) and, now is reported for all weekends, weeks, etc.
Just by chance while gathering this information, I came across this Press Release from RoSPA (The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents), which mentions (in Britain) a "seven per cent fall in roads deaths in 2007 to 2,943" and that "Road deaths peaked in 1941 when 9,169 people were killed."
As they say, the numbers are a record LOW. (Could that situation be mirrored in Spain?) Given what must be tremendous growth in traffic since 1941, the drop in road deaths, in percentage terms, is HUGE. So the situation does not appear to warrant any more regulation than it already has.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Where does los gigantes in tenerife get its name?
To answer this reader's question, the town gets its name, Los Gigantes, which means The Giants, from these, the Acantilados de los Gigantes (more images) - the giant cliffs - which plunge into the sea from the Teno Mountains. These basaltic rock formations, characterized by their sheer vertical walls oscillate between 300 and over 600 meters in height.
The Teno area is an ancient volcanic mass, one of the oldest parts of the island, geologically, which the processes of erosion have modelled to its current landscape, forming these giant cliffs on the coast.
In the time of the guanches, the cliffs were known as the Wall of Hell and, you can imagine why, when their dark volcanic lava makes it practically impossible to penetrate into the interior of the island, with only some gorges opening to the sea. Also, curiously, these cliffs don't continue below sea level. The depth of the sea here is bearly 30 meters, which makes it difficult to access.
Here are the same cliffs, seen from Punta Teno (Teno Point) to the north:
Where to find Los Gigantes on the western coast of Tenerife:
Wednesday, July 09, 2008
La Churrería
If a hamburguesería sells hamburgers, then a churrería, must, of course, sell churros. What are they, you ask? Well both Rudy in Guatemala and Wikipedia have already explained perfectly adequately, so I'm not going to repeat it, except to say that they are wonderful with chocolate and, like English fish and chips, these sugary delicacies are best eaten out of paper on the street.
Wikipedia note that, "Specialized churrerías can be found as street shops or as towable wagons in local fiestas" and this, clearly, is one of those. Look for them at every fiesta, throughout the summer and try the churros.
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
Santa Cruz' Bull Ring to be Saved
Birmingham's Bull Ring Shopping Center (one of the largest in the United Kingdom) is built on a place where bulls were slaughtered.
Now the city of Santa Cruz in Tenerife is to have it's own equivalent, as its Plaza de Toros (Bull Ring) is turned into a "Plaza de todos" (Plaza for everyone), combining social and commercial use.
Over the weekend a total of 35 prospective designs for the project were put on display, for the public to view and vote on. On Monday, a jury made the final selection.
The chosen project, by architects Antonio del Pozo Mozo, César del Pozo Ortega and Carlos Bernal Limiñana received the most public votes (166)and majority support from the jury.
Only 6 of the 35 designs had proposed the total demolition of the present bull ring building, but the winner will keep this emblematic facade intact.
The current building will be consolidated structurally, with the facade restored in it's present form and used as a container for a public space. In the interior, the raised, tiered stands are to be retained for recreational use.
The Plaza de Toros de Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Santa Cruz' Bull Ring) was inaugurated initially in 1893 - as a consequence of the the then huge following for bullfighting in the city in the late 19th Century - with a capacity of 6,800.
In 1924 the Bull Ring suffered a fire and a large part of it was destroyed. In 1927, after remodelling works, it was reopened and remained in use for bullfighting until 1983. From then onwards the Plaza de Toros has been used for a variety of other events, among them the various Carnaval contests, Canarian wrestling, boxing, political rallies and musical concerts.
The new project includes 2,325 square meters for recreational and cultural use; 1,425 sq meters for commercial use (shops); 1,840 square meters of office space and the remaining 5,520 square meters is for residential use.
Aerial photo and map of the Plaza de Toros (Santa Cruz de Tenerife)
El proyecto ganador es "Plaza de Todos" Via: territoriosred
Photo: Plaza de toros, Mataparda
The Best and the worst
Second place on the top ten list of most embarrassing holiday destinations was Tenerife. The holiday destination Brits are most likely to keep quiet about visiting was Benidorm. At the other end of the scale, according to a survey carried out for Boots, Paris was named as the city Brits were most proud of visiting, with New York the second top holiday hot spot.
This really says more about the best and worst in people, as Julie comments: "Funny that! I find the British tourists in Tenerife swilling alcohol like they expect to fly back to prohibition, fighting and throwing up in the streets of Las Americas pretty damn embarrassing too." Having lived in Tenerife for 16 years, believe me, no-one is more embarrassed by British holidaymakers' behaviour than an expat, sick of being tarred with the same brush and treated disrespectfully.
Anyway, it just happens that I've been to all four places: Benidorm (twice, in fact, and even Benidorm has its pretty bits, when you make an effort to get out and explore) and, I've also been to both Paris and New York.
All have their good and bad points. All have their over-developed bits, but all offer the chance to escape to the surrounding areas (if you can be bothered); they all have something cultural, as well as tacky, touristy parts selling crappy souvenirs. You'll find "undesirable" British tourists at all of them too.
Criticisms of Tenerife and Benidorm are often in reference to them being too developed, yet what are the other two? Yeah, humongous cities.
Resorts tend to offer cheap holidays, of course, and you'd think that, with ever rising prices, people would be glad of a bargain, but they're not: they're even more embarrassed if their holiday only cost a couple of hundred quid.
Is this because people can't discern quality these days and believe that things like higher prices or destinations farther away (i.e. quantity) equates to it?
Generally, the cheapest ways of travelling; backpacking, smaller pensions, bus, bike, walking ... are the ways to see the most and get closest to the reality of a destination, which is actually a far more quality experience.
As Big John says, in his Rules for real life: "Travel is supposed ‘to broaden the mind’, so remember that when you are laying in a pool of your own vomit outside a Benidorm bar." (Or a Tenerife one.) You can get just as drunk in Paris and New York (well, you needn't, as I tested that for you too), so it's not places people are embarrassed about, it's the behaviour. Their own behaviour.
People are strange. Of course, it's all about fashion and snobbery and not about reality. Most, if they've been to Tenerife and Benidorm, probably made no effort to get outside the confines of their hotel, let alone the resort, so their perceptions of what these places are all about, are decidedly clouded. Those who really know would not be embarrassed to say that they had travelled anywhere, when they've taken the time to explore it properly.
But, I guess, if you're even reading this, you know that already.
Photos: 1. New York City Skyline, 2. Paris - Eiffel Tower, 3. Benidorm Levante, 4. Parque Las Mesas (That's Santa Cruz, Tenerife's capital.)
Monday, July 07, 2008
Tenerife's Green Homes
It's taken 13 years, but after "administration delays", a project of 25 bioclimatic homes are due to be available to rent, at Tenerife's renewable energy centre on the Granadilla industrial estate, in 2009.
At present, 7 homes are finished and furnished; another 7 are built, but not furnished and the remaining 11 are still being built.
Costs have apparently been increasing with time, with the architect giving a figure for each home of over 240,000 euros (£190,000). The island corporation later said that the cost of each home was 445,000 euros (£353,000).
Canary Green have some brief details and, for those who prefer, here's the long version (in Spanish).
Via teritoriosred
2008 Tenerife Summer Sales begin today
The summer sales in Tenerife, we are told, have been brought forward to begin today.
Originally scheduled to start on Saturday, July 12th, the local government has apparently bowed to pressure from retailers to extend the sale, because of the current economic climate.
The sales in Tenerife will run through until September 6th.
And, as is customary on these occasions, the Association of Consumers is urging shoppers to be rational, stick to the budget and not to shop compulsively, simply because prices are cheap.
Another fire in Tenerife
On Sunday afternoon, four helicopters, as well as numerous police, Civil Guard and firefighters, were called to fight a fire in La Esperanza, in El Rosario in northeastern Tenerife. The fire started at around 4 p.m. and was brought under control by 6.15 p.m., but managed to burn approximately 4 hectares (40,000 square meters), with flames reaching the high mountain.
Inhabitants were fearful, once again, that the fire could affect their homes.
It's not the first time fire has occurred in this area. In fact, says the report, it's has been repeated on various occasions, almost always intentionally.
Residents take it as given that this fire was set by human hands.
Labels: Tenerife Fire
Sunday, July 06, 2008
What's on in Tenerife 7-13 July
Friday, July 11th: Appearing at the Auditorio de Tenerife and headlining in the Canarias Jazz & Mas Heineken 2008 festival, is legendary band, The Crusaders, featuring; Joe Sample, Wilton Felder, Ray Parker Jr, Nick Sample, Nils Landgren and the Funk Unit. More info / tickets.
In the neighbourhood of La Cuesta, in La Laguna, on Friday, there's the Festival Alisios, a festival "SIN", which sounds a bit depraved until you discover that "sin" actually means "without" in Spanish. This is a pop festival where tobacco, alcohol and drugs are all prohibited.
Saturday, July 12th. Fans of noisy engine revving will want to watch the Arona Hill Climb in the morning, which is held on this steep and wiggly bit of road above Arona to La Escalona. Here's some video from last year's event.
American rapper, Redman, appears at the Recinto Ferial in San Isidro, Tenerife south.
For something a little more Latin, the Salsarao Summer Party at Parque La Reina Alto, Arona, with 16 hours of fun from 11 a.m. In La Laguna, there's the Festival Folclórico Regional 7 Islas (7 Islands Regional Folklore Festival), being held at 9.30 p.m. in the Recinto Festero, San Benito.
In Puerto de la Cruz, the July Fiestas kick off on Saturday with a cavalcade announcing the fiestas from 8.30 p.m. in the following streets; Calle Rosario Sotomayor, Avenida Melchor Luz, Avenida José del Campo Llarena, Calle Mequinez, Calle Pérez Zamora, Plaza del Charco, Calle La Marina to the old fishing port. At the end of the procession there will be the ubiquitous fireworks display. That's followed, at 9.30 p.m., by a Canarian Dinner and (at 10.30 p.m.) a Gran Baile de Magos (Dance), in the Plaza de Europa. Traditional costume mandatory for the latter.
Sunday, July 13th sees the Romería de San Benito Abad in La Laguna. This traditional fiesta has been declared to be of national tourist interest and is the only fiesta of its kind to receive the denomination of regional (not just local.)
The Romería de San Benito Abad is one of the oldest and most popular fiestas, dating back to 1532. Then, it was not celebrated as it is now as there were no ox carts, just the icon of the saint and the farm animals. Originally organized by the Guild of Farm Labourers, that year marked the end of a drought and was when San Benito was chosen as the patron of countrymen. [Source]
English speakers will know San Benito better as Saint Benedict, founder of monastic communities and patron of farmers and agricultural workers, as well as cavers, civil engineers, speliologists, spelunkers, inflammatory diseases and Italian architects (in no particular order), amongst other things.
On the second Sunday of July each year, this procession - in which will participate; folk musicians and dancers, many herds of goats, a long line of ox carts plying the fiesta goers with copious food and wine, as well as carts decorated as sailing boats that are unique to this fiesta - leaves from the district of San Benito in La Laguna at around 12:00 mid-day.
It passes through the streets of the old town (UNESCO World Heritage site) of the island's former capital, passing, amongst other places, the Iglesia de la Concepción (Church of the Conception), Tenerife's oldest church. Like most of these fiestas, the Romería is the high spot in a series of events that started on July 1st and runs to July 20th.
Romería de San Benito Abad | 
Romería de San Benito Abad 2007
Also on Sunday, July 13th, Colombian singer, Juanes appears in concert at the Estadio Heliodoro Rodríguez López (CD Tenerife football stadium) in Santa Cruz.
And at the Discoteca Faro Chill Art, C.C. Torviscas, Costa Adeje, is the Cool & Sun Sunday Party. Every Sunday of the summer with Brinsley Forde & Taknara Foundation, DJ Jacabo Padilla and Guest DJs.
In Puerto de la Cruz, the July Fiestas continue on Sunday with the Procesión del Gran Poder (Procession of the Great Power [of God]), starting and ending at Puerto's Iglesia de la Peña de Francia.
Harnessing the great power of waves, Sunday also sees the start of a Professional Windsurf Camp in El Médano that runs to July 20th.
More July fiestas in Tenerife (4 pages of them), can be found here.
More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar.
Saturday, July 05, 2008
Monarch Holidays Weekend Sale
Monarch Holidays, Monarch Hotels and Avro Flights, the the UK's leading charter flight-only company, are running a special web sale for this weekend only, with many destinations included. Save up to an extra £60 per couple on all Summer 08 holidays, but hurry sale ends midday Monday.
Click to view: Monarch Holidays, Monarch Hotels and Avro Flights.
A look at the Plaza de España
Works have apparently, FINALLY, finished on Santa Cruz' Plaza de España and, on last Monday night these fences, that had surrounded the building site for the last two years, were taken down. There's just the official inauguration to come now, but meanwhile you can enjoy a peek at the handiwork of Swiss architects, Herzog and de Meuron, in Tenerife's capital.
(In person if you go to Santa Cruz. Otherwise, you can see a photo here.)
According to Canarias 7, older folk don't seem that keen on the new plaza, with complaints that there are not enough trees or, that the huge circular, central lake takes up most of the space where once people could walk. The lake will contain 2,500 litres of water to a depth of 1 meter; its main attraction being a 30 meter high geyser that will discharge water intermittently (like a proper geyser with a volcanic heat source would do.)
The original plan was to have the lake fill and empty, with salt water, with the tides, but technical difficulties obliged them to make it fresh water.
During the next couple of weeks the lake will be filled and emptied and all the other working parts tested, while the tourist information office and the crafts' shop, run by Santa Cruz town hall, will take possession of their new pavilions in the plaza.
The Plaza de España remodelling project has cost close to 20 million euros (approx 15.92 million pounds), 80% of which has been financed by the Tenerife Island Corporation and the remaining 20% by Santa Cruz council.
The next stage of the project is to pedestrianize the Avenida de Anaga, taking the traffic beneath it in a tunnel and extending the Plaza de España across towards the port. The Canarian Government, which is responsible for this part of the project, has put it out to tender and it's expected that it will be awarded after the summer. The final stage appertains to the Port Authority, which is projected to have a grand esplanade with shops, restaurants and an hotel.
Friday, July 04, 2008
Epicentres of coastal urban corruption
The Spanish judicial system, we're told, is currently dealing with 67 cases (so few?) of (alleged) urban corruption along the coasts, in which dozens of former mayors and councillors are implicated, as well as various real estate promoters.
Of those 67 cases, currently in judicial processing, a total of 527 people are implicated, 180 of whom hold public office. Persons in public office are involved in 47 of the cases, which, in practical terms, means that in 8 out of 10 cases, there is a political implication. Andalucía and the Canary Islands head the ranking of urban irregularities in the courts. (Something to be proud of?)
UPDATE: The following is an interesting quote on corruption... from Thomas Bata, a Czechoslovakian entrepreneur of the 1920's (Via Surviving Athens)
"Wealth can not exist where the people are busy with mutual cheating, have no time for creating values and wealth. It is remarkable that we can find the greatest number of wealthy tradesmen and a population on a high standard of living in countries with a high level of business morality. On the other hand, we can find poor tradesmen and entrepreneurs and an impoverished population in countries with a low standard of business morality. This is natural because these people concentrate on cheating one another instead of trying to create value."
Photo: iLotz via the Secret Tenerife group.
A monkey walks into an hotel in Tenerife
Photo: pete4ducksAn hotel employee in Playa de las Américas, on the south of Tenerife, found an unaccompanied monkey yesterday, loitering around one of the apartments belonging to the installation.
The Campbell's Monkey (Cercophitecus Campbelli) 
probably felt right at home, visiting the purpose-built holiday resort - with sand imported from Africa - from it's native habitat west Africa. Nevertheless, customs have been alerted, in case the animal is an illegal immigrant has been imported illegally. (Maybe it came by boat, as the Campbell's monkey has cheek pouches to store food in while it travels.)
We know the island's authorities are always looking to promote Tenerife to new tourism markets, but somehow, we thought they meant humans. Then again, we sometimes wonder from the behaviour of some visitors ...
The real animal is staying at a local zoo, because its owners have not been found, as it does not have a microchip. It is said to be in good health.
Distantly related: A Chimp walks into a bar in Tenerife
So the monkey pictured is actually in Thailand, not Tenerife. That didn't seem to matter when locating a theme park on this island, so we figured the monkey won't mind either!
Looking after your luggage in Tenerife
Well, you'd better look after it yourself, because the baggage handlers might only help themselves. We know that this goes on all over the world, but TypicallySpanish report that four baggage handlers were caught on security cameras at Tenerife Sur airport, allegedly taking items from the baggage.
The good news, I guess, is that this confirms that Tenerife airport has security cameras in place and on the job and, that they caught these perps!
The report in Spanish says that all four worked for an airline, rather than the airport itself, but they don't report which company. It also says that the police investigation, which involved analysing the security footage, was initiated after several of the company's passengers had complained that their suitcases had been forced open. So, you know that complaints are heard too.
When I flew to the UK from Tenerife last month, I put my money where my mouth is and paid all of 5 euros (about 4 quid) to have my suitcase plastic wrapped. Making them a bit harder to get into, quickly and invisibly, my hope is, faced with a choice of suitcases to dip from, baggage handlers with klepto tendencies will be less likely to choose the ones that have been wrapped.
It's a slightly amusing spectacle too, because the lad who lifted my suitcase in order to do the wrapping, first put on his weight-lifting belt. A necessary precaution for his health, perhaps, but there was a certain ceremony about it that made it funny - not to mention the irony of the ever-reducing baggage allowance on flights these days, which calls that need into question.
That aside ...
It dawns on you, as soon as they start wrapping, that you could easily have done this at home for just a euro or so, with a roll of kitchen clingfilm. :)
What did strike me is that none of the other suitcases arriving in the UK had been plastic wrapped, so British people clearly haven't adopted this idea yet and, if it does offer any protection against being a theft victim, they're missing out on it. I certainly don't think that the fact that my suitcase arrived intact is "conclusive proof" that this "works": there is no foolproof prevention, but it might help and I feel it was worth the small price to feel better about it.
Taxis at Tenerife South Airport
As more and more people buy their holidays "unpackaged", that is, you book your flights, accommodation and other needs separately, this may well be of interest. Gabriel at Blog-Tenerife has published a useful photo showing taxi rates from Tenerife south airport to some of the major resort destinations on the island.
These are only approximate fares, because the exact fare will be according to the meter, but should give a guide to what you should be asked to pay, within a couple of euros, or so.
The distances are also marked, which is interesting, but the two columns (with prices listed in EUROS), marked DIURNO and NOCTURNO, refer to the daytime and night time rates, respectively.
For those who prefer to have everything organized ahead, you can book your taxi online before you travel. You'll pay fractionally more if you do it this way, but you'll be buying peace of mind that everything is taken care of.
Comparing three services, I checked the cost of a pre-booked taxi from Tenerife south airport to Los Cristianos. Prices (in POUNDS) varied and were; A2Btransfers (£27.40), Resorthoppa (£31.00) and Holiday Taxis (£32.40).
Obviously, prices will vary, depending on the time, the number of passengers, etc., but these should help you shop around for the one that suits you. All three of those services also offer shared shuttle bus services, which, again depending on the number of people, might prove to be better value.
Thursday, July 03, 2008
Anniversary of the Derrame del vino
The Derrame del Vino is an event that took place on the night of July 3rd, 1666. It's when local wine producers poured gallons of Malmsey wine down the drain in Garachico in protest over ruinous prices driven by the British monopoly of the sector. There's even a statue to celebrate putting those dastardly Brits in their place along the sea front road in the town.
Portugal's independence from Castile; Charles II's marriage to Catherine of Braganza, which favoured trade with Madeira at the Canary Islands' cost; as well as the creation, in 1665, in London of The Canary Island Company, establishing a British monopoly over the Canarian wine trade in England, are all events that conspired to to provoke this reaction in Tenerife.
On that night, around 300 to 400 masked men broke down the doors of the bodegas and destroyed the barrels, spilling the wine - rather than sell it for low prices - and causing "one of the strangest floods in world history", wrote historian, José de Viera y Clavijo.
According to this page, the monument was erected to commemorate the 500th anniversary, except that won't happen until 2166 by my calculations.
In Tenerife anything is possible - or they mean the 300th!
It seems a curious thing to erect a statue to anyway, but it's existence highlights just how involved the British have been, right throughout history, in both the making and the undoing of the Canary Islands' fortunes.
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
The Return of the Transatlantic voyage
Trans Atlantic voyages, these days, generally conger up images of lone yachtspersons or rowers, battling it single-handedly against the ocean and the elements and, admirably, many of these fools adventurers make the crossing in aid of a good cause.
On the other hand, if your dream of a trans Atlantic voyage is much more in keeping with the time when Edward and Mrs Simpson crossed the high seas in style and, involves a few more onboard comforts than just the best rowlock to lean on, then you might be interested in a couple of decidedly more luxurious voyages that will be sailing from Tenerife later in the year.
The SeaDream I crosses from Tenerife to St. Johns, Antigua (calling into St. Martin and St. Barthelemy).
SeaDream II sails from Tenerife to Miami, non-stop. The voyages sail on November 1 and 13, respectively.
And with 95 staff to look after only 110 passengers, they can promise that guests will be, "Splendidly Spoiled".
According to this report in the Travel trade Gazette, SeaDream Yacht Club are advertising special fares for six of its voyages, including these two.
These will certainly bring some "exclusive" passengers into Tenerife to transfer onto the ships for departure, which can only be a good thing for the island's image and, Santa Cruz will, we trust, will "push the boat out" in style.
Tuesday, July 01, 2008
July 2008 Events in Tenerife
July's big event is the Festival EOLICA (MySpace), or Festival Internacional de Energias Renovables (International Festival of Renewable Energies): a consciousness raising pop/rock festival held at WindPower Park in Tenerife, below gigantic windmills and on the shore of the ocean. This is the 6th year the festival has been held in Tenerife and, brings together acts such as Britain's Asian Dub Foundation (MySpace) on July 4th and American actress turned singer, Juliette Lewis and the Licks (MySpace) on July 5th.
CanaryGreen have more information, including where to buy EOLICA tickets.
On July 5th and 6th, in the Plaza de la Libertad in Garachico is this year's annual Garachico Crafts Fair. These Crafts Fairs provide a great day out for those who enjoy a bit of retail therapy and are the best places to find a genuine, local, unique item to take home to remember your visit. Photos from Garachico Crafts Fair 2007.
Arona will be pulling the rabbit out of the hat with their Festival of Magic, running from June 30th to July 6th, in the streets and plazas of Cabo Blanco, El Fraile, Guaza, Valle San Lorenzo, Parque La Reina, La Camella, Buzanada and Los Cristianos. Events culminate at 6 p.m. on Sunday with a Gala Infantil de Magia (Kids' Magic Show) in Las Galletas.
On Saturday, July 5th, there's the Fiesta Rick'Salsa at Discoteca Rick's, Cruce de Los Rodeos, La Laguna.
Every Sunday of the summer: Cool & Sun Sunday Party at Faro Chill Art, Torviscas, Costa Adeje. Live Reggae Music with Aswad founder, Brinsley Forde (MySpace) & Taknara Foundation, DJ Jacabo Padilla and Guest DJs. Entrance FREE.
Energetic types can join a walk to Teno Alto in the north west corner of Tenerife on Sunday, July 6th. Bookings via the Albergue de Bolico.
Other events to choose from include the start of the, Canarias Jazz & Mas Heineken 2008 festival (that runs to Saturday, July 12th, in Tenerife); and upcoming Fiestas del Puerto de la Cruz, and Fiesta del Carmen and July fiestas in Puerto de la Cruz, which will reach their climax around mid-month.
As summer hots up and so the number of fiesta and events increases, we'll try to bring you more details of what's coming up, in time for each weekend.
More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar.
Tenerife Celebrates Euro 2008 Victory
As throughout the rest of the country, thousands of people took to the streets in Tenerife on Sunday night to celebrate Spain's triumph in the European Cup.
The party in Santa Cruz concentrated around the Plaza de la Paz, the Parque García Sanabria and the ramblas, although before that many had gone to watch the match in the Plaza del Príncipe, where the town hall had set up a giant TV screen and invited everyone to free paella.
And as you can hear from the video or read in any of the many reports, celebrations everywhere were noisy with car horns and fireworks.
