Sunday, September 30, 2007

Tenerife for grown-ups

My, the Abama resort's PR department have been working hard this week. Oh, I know it's the season to be writing about Tenerife with all the winter sun possibilities it offers - and there's no doubt it does - now the Sunday Mirror are in on the act, singing the praises of this huge place that looks "like a cross between a Moroccan palace and a Disney theme park".

That's enough to put me off to start with! Now, I have to point out that I haven't been to Abama, but I've spoken to people who have and whose taste and judgement I trust and, lets just be polite: it would not be my style.

There have been several of these articles (press releases?) in the British press lately and, it's certainly better than the usual negative coverage Tenerife gets, but while these luxury hotels are indeed well away from the bar strips and other "undesirable holiday elements" and they do offer some real indulgence, what you won't find in them is the real Tenerife.

On the other hand, you really do have to hand it to the Abama people for their tenacity and perseverance. Normally, unless we have a disaster or the recent fire that may (but probably won't), involve some danger to British tourists, the British press doesn't seem all that interested in Tenerife.

It also appears to me that continuing the myth about an island full of nothing but drunken revellers suits their purpose (circulation) quite well too.

You can almost imagine the probably, mostly one-sided conversation with the reporters, whose initial response was unlikely to enthusiastic and maybe not much beyond grunt level, when Abama's PR was attempting to "sell" the idea that, "No this really is new and different, nothing like the Tenerife you know" (and like to have a love-hate relationship with.)

From my own experience, I know they're not interested in "the truth."

And, judging from the fact that I've now seen several items where the content and, in some cases even the wording, has been roughly the same, I suspect that the reporters took the story (to get paid, obviously), but may never have set foot on the island. Some wouldn't be seen dead here at all - after all, they think it's just a resort and this is just another hotel. Others might, but if they are writing for the Sunday newspapers, they would probably, mostly, be likely stay coddled up in the five star hotels.

Growing up always was a gradual process and, to be fair, the British press seems to be getting there, but I don't think it has fully emerged from it's awkward and confused puberty to gain the wisdom of age yet. What seems to completely escape it's notice is that Tenerife was always grown up, so long as you made the effort to leave the "infant playground" resorts. And I don't mean 5 miles up the road to a newer, more luxurious poolside!

Apart from a hugely varied landscape - on an island small enough to drive round in a day, so there's no excuse about it being too far - that is millions of years old, the island has towns and villages that were founded over 500 years ago and that contain some very rich and grown up culture.

This weekend alone, you could have participated in the wine harvest (an industry that has thrived on the islands since Shakespeare's time), gone to a real Festival of Latin music (not the Flamenco that is put on for the tourists and has NOTHING to do with the Canary Islands' culture), the Opera, for a stroll around the city that was important historically as the blueprint for all the Central, South and North American colonial towns, tasted tapas in "their natural habitat", or witnessed all kinds of age-old, local traditions.

Despite all that existing, it's utterly depressing to those of us who live amongst and do know where the real Tenerife is to see that what tourists demand are things like "good English food" (if that isn't an oxymoron, it's an irony if ever there were one from a people who, at home, eat Tapas, Italian, Chinese, Greek, Indian ... anything but); Marks & Spencer or to find out where they can watch the football (presumably British matches).

Whist this does suggest a lack of imagination on the part of the "average holidaymaker", one can hardly blame them for thinking that there is nothing else, when the press starts an article about how much better, trendier and more real Tenerife is these days - at this point I begin reading, excitedly, hoping they've "got it" finally - only to find that it is yet another promotional piece for yet another luxury hotel that could be anywhere in the world.

In the meantime, until the mainstream do "get it", real grown-ups *, we have to hope, will go out and look for the real Tenerife for themselves.

* By the way, if you're one of them, I recommend that you get Real Tenerife Island Drives to find the good stuff that is off the standard tourist trail.

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Tenerife winter sun weather forcast is "scorchio"

In this article for The Sunday Times, Susan d'Arcy says, "Summer was a washout. And now we have those cold, dark, car-won't-start December mornings to look forward to. Anyone fancy some winter sun?" She adds that "Tenerife is becoming - wait for it - trendy". Personally, I wouldn't agree with what she lists as the latest thing in cool (a huge, glitzy resort), but hey, I'll settle for the island losing it's "cheap and nasty" image any which way.

At the end of the article, she mentions the development of "La Niña, the big, stroppy sister of El Niño" and weather expected in each of the regions she lists. For Egypt, Oman and the Canaries, that is, she says, "scorchio."

The 13 hottest hotels for winter sun

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Saturday, September 29, 2007

Fiveadayz in Tenerife



You know you're supposed to eat five portions of fruit and veggies a day right? And you would think that on a sub-tropical island, FULL to bursting point with home-grown bananas, pineapples, mangoes and every other type of fruit & veg you can think of that you'd be tripping over the stuff.

Well, no. In the resorts, where I guess establishments offer what most "average British tourists" demand, not unless you make the effort. You'd probably have more luck if you went to look for them in supermarkets.

Nathan Giles sets out to discover if five-a-day is possible on a holiday with the lads. After declaring that there was "No sign of anything healthy at all", on one menu, he concludes, sadly, that when a fry-up costs 3 Euros and a salad costs 5 Euros, "What's the young man going to opt for?"

Like he said at the beginning, the only way he'll get five-a-day on this holiday is with very fruity cocktails! And no, the Strongbow doesn't count! :)

Fiveadayz in Tenerife video

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Looking for the perfect tropical Christmas card?


Desert Island Christmas
There's a rumour going about that Christmas is coming! :) No, seriously, people have been searching here lately for Tropical Christmas Cards and, ever eager to please, I wanted to point out that we have a selection of those, mainly because I thought they were rather apt for an island where you can be pretty certain of temperatures warm enough to be lolling about on the beach on Christmas Day.

So, if you're sick of cold weather and winter snow scenes, why not send some real "warm wishes" instead this year, with our desert island decorated tropical palm tree, or Santa enjoying the winter sun and water sports.



Scuba Diving Santa

Santa designed this especially for the scuba diving enthusiasts, though we think it's a bit risque when you see this on ladies thong knickers! :-)

Whichever you choose, it'll be like sending your Christmas Cards from a sub-tropical paradise island. If you're coming to Tenerife or the Canary Islands for Christmas, they're perfectly in keeping with your winter sun holiday to make your friends and relatives just that little more green ...

Click here to continue onto Santa's Tropical Grotto ...

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Friday, September 28, 2007

Tenerife: Something for the weekend 28/9 - 30/9



Quite a varied program of events this weekend in Tenerife, from traditional harvest festivals, gastronomy, exhibitions and museum visits, plus music for all tastes, from electronic and latin, through choral and opera to rock.

Vendimia de la Denominación de Origen Tacoronte Acentejo

Come to the grape harvest in the wine region of Tacoronte Acentejo on Saturday, September 29th. Experience collecting the grapes first hand, with guided visits to the bodegas and fincas. It's described as a day of work that culminates in the traditional grape pickers' lunch in one of their bodegas. Price 18 Euros (around £12) includes lunch and excursions.

Reservations: Telephone 902 886 407 or visit www.tacovin.com

De tapas por el Puerto

This weekend, until Sunday, is your last chance to bar crawl in Puerto de la Cruz along their I Ruta Gastronómica (Gastronomic Route), entitled "De tapas por el Puerto", in which 22 participating restaurants in the town are offering visitors the chance to try a tapa, plus other "Productos de la Tierra" (products of the land): the ones made from either grapes or barley (considered to be almost "health foods"! :-) More details here ...


Fiesta Son Latino

Come and enjoy the best Fiesta of Latin Music at the Cactus Park (Los Cristianos) on Saturday, September 29th, from 22:00 onwards. Marchaymas' special DJ presents Salsa, Merengue, Reggeaton and more.

Tickets 10 Euros in advance or 15 Euros on the door includes your first drink. Thereafter, all beers 1.50 Euros and shorts 3.90 Euros.

Reservations by phone: 669 651 121.

Fiesta Son Latino - Cactus Park (Los Cristianos)

Santa Cruz Stage 2007

Festival of electronic music on Saturday, September 29th, from 20:00 to 01:00 at the Castillo Negro in Santa Cruz, later spilling out onto the terrace of the Parque Marítimo next door. Look Closer have a list of who's on when as do Marchaymas.


Heineken Campus Rock 2007

Saturday, September 29th with performances from; La Quinta Estación, Antonio Carmona, Mikel Erentxun and La Guardia. No, we've never heard of any of them either, but it's rock and it all sounds the same, doesn't it? :) No, OK, if you like rock it will be a new experience. Venue is the Plaza del Cristo in La Laguna from 21:00. Price 13?. in advance or 15? on the door.

Heineken Campus Rock Via: Marchaymas

Tenerife Opera 2007

The last of three performances of Giacomo Puccini's opera in three acts, Turandot, will be performed in the Sala Sinfónica of the Auditorio de Tenerife on Saturday, September 29th.

"Turandot" de Puccini abrirá el próximo martes la nueva edición de Ópera de Tenerife
Turandot at the Auditorio de Tenerife
More details here ...


VII Encuentro Coral de Guía de Isora

Saturday, September 29th at 20:00 in the Teatro-Cine-Auditorio in Guía de Isora is a choral concert, with the participation of La Coral Ajijides, El Coro Infantil y Juvenil de Leverkusen (junior choir from Germany) and La Coral Polifónica de la Casa de Venezuela en Canarias (Venezuelan Expat Choir).

Guía de Isora acoge mañana el séptimo encuentro coral


Natura Salud (Natural Health Fair)

Natura Salud (Natural Health) fair with over 4,000 square meters and 58 stands, as well as workshops and conferences, dedicated to natural health, complimentary medicine and healthy living. Daily until Sunday, September 30th, from 11:00 to 21:00 at the Centro Internacional de Ferias y Congresos de Tenerife, in Santa Cruz. Entrance: 3 Euros (about 2 quid.)

El Recinto Ferial acogerá la feria 'Natura Salud' que este año contará con un total de 50 expositores

Noches de Museo (Museum Nights)

We're a little late with this one, but this is an event that is repeated from time to time, so we'll include it to wet your appetite! Friday, September 28th, at 20:30, the Museo de Historia de Tenerife (Tenerife History Museum), Casa Lercaro, C/ San Agustín, 22, 38201 La Laguna, are holding one of their Noches de Museo (Museum Nights). This is an after hours, exclusive, guided tour of the museum with specialist guide, followed by a nocturnal guided stroll through the historical and beautiful old city (UNESCO World Heritage) of La Laguna. More information and reservations: 922 825949/43.

Noches de Museo

De Fiesta! Traditional Festivals this Weekend in Tenerife

For the Fiestas de Santísimo Cristo del Calvario 2007, in Icod de los Vinos, at 19:30 on Saturday, September 29th in the Parque Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres is the Fiesta de la Vendimia (Harvest Festival) dedicated to the exultation of the local wine. The weekend's climax is the Batalla de Flores (Flower Battle) that takes place from El Calvario to the Parque Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres, starting at 18:00 on Sunday, September 30th.

Icod de los Vinos recupera la celebración de la Fiesta de la Vendimia

Fiestas in honour of Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Concepción in Tijoco, Adeje, run from tonight, September 28th until Monday, October 1st. There are horsies in the ring at 4 p.m. on Saturday and all the usual verbenas (knees ups) from 23:00 onwards (to dawn) on most nights.

There are also fiestas going on in Guía de Isora, La Laguna, San Miguel de Abona and Candelaria. Canarias Fiesta have the list here and Orquestas Canarias have a list of what orchestras (the fiesta salsa type) are playing at what location this weekend. Neither place names, nor group names need translation. Assume that most of these dances start around 11 p.m. in the main plaza of the location mentioned. Just follow the loud music! :)

More events, exhibitions and what's on, in our calendar.

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Smoking ban could be extended in Tenerife

Losgigantes.com are reporting that there may be some amendments on the way to Spain's almost two year old anti-smoking law.

"The Ministry of Health in Madrid has announced that it plans to revise the law by the end of the year and in the meantime is considering banning smoking from all establishments, regardless of size," they say.

The fact is that bar owners would face the exact same regulations in the UK, but lets look on the bright side: here, at least their customers can stand outside to have a fag, without freezing to bloody death. :)

Smoking ban could be extended in Tenerife

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Spain runs ads in Senegal to scare off boat migrants

"Don't risk your life for nothing. You are the future of Africa," singer Youssou N'Dour tells the camera, sitting alone at night on a beached boat in one of a series of ads funded by the government of Spain, whose prosperity has lured Senegalese and other Africans desperate to escape poverty.

Earlier this month, a migrant boat capsized just yards off the craggy coast of the Canaries. Six people survived; 10 others drowned. So far this year, 7,000 more have made it. Nobody knows how many have died trying; the boats and bodies of the unsuccessful are usually lost at sea. In 2006, 31,000 Senegalese reached Spain's Canary Islands on fragile wooden boats, braving 10-days at sea and possible dehydration, starvation and death.

Spain runs ads in Senegal to scare off boat migrants

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What did you do on your Tenerife holiday flight?

Family Friendly Holiday FlightMiguel at Canarias Bruta, advising of some Problemitas técnicos (tiny technical problems) at their web site warns readers to:

"Please fasten your seat belts, place your seat back trays in the upright position and abstain from having sex in the toilets."


Do they really say that on flights these days? If not, do they need to?

Or, more's to the point, what on earth were you doing on your flight to the Canary Islands that he would even think of such a thing? :-)

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Madmen Across the Water

Well, this Elton John thing is turning out to be a right saga! To bring you up to date, first we were told that a concert was going to be in November 2007, then it was off. Then it was to be in 2008. And, the latest is that Sir Elton's own people don't know anything at all about any concert in Tenerife.

The mayor's "First Lieutenant" and councillor for Economy and Tax, Ángel Llanos, announced on Monday to the whole council session and public in Santa Cruz that Sir Elton John was going to come, but in 2008, without specifying a date (on which were based the press releases that day.)

So, Canarias24horas did what any citizen or fan would do: they rang Elton John's office in London to check and, as a result of which, say "We have spoken to Elton John's office and they don't know nothing of Tenerife."

There's really no need for me to translate much more of what's in their news article, where they explain, carefully, how they spent 40 minutes being passed from person to person, until they got the right department, because the recording of the conversation - in English - is available at this page.

What seems key to me is that, shortly after the girl at Elton's office had been away to check, she says, "It's not true". Whilst the language used in the conversation is not that clear and precise, this appears to me to be that she is saying that the news of the concerts just ain't so: i.e. it's untruths.

Whilst "simple total incompetence" on the part of those involved at this end is not far from the imagination, the thing that enters my head is, is it possible that someone has negotiated with the town hall in Santa Cruz and, that someone has indeed been here, claiming to be the star's technicians, but that they are fakes and absolutely nothing to do with the real Elton John?

In truth, one does not know what to think, but his office says they can't say very much about it, but do say "we don't think he is" [playing in Tenerife].

Hemos hablado con el despacho de Elton John, y no saben nada de Tenerife


NB: Madman Across the Water is the name of a surrealistic song and album released in 1971 by Elton John. Being an island full of people who don't have a clue what's going on, I thought that the title seemed to fit!

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Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Day of Traditions in El Palmar

Sunday's Day of Traditions or Día de la Trilla, the last day of the fiestas here in the village of El Palmar, was, as in previous years, a great day out.

The building of the Carbonera - that smoking heap of charcoal producing earth and foliage - was business as usual and, I can't help laughing that it - typically for here - took, by my count, 10 blokes to do so, six of whom were merely "observers".

The bit you don't see in the photo was that it also required an entire bottle of wine, local, obviously, poured from a recycled whiskey bottle!

One element missing this year were the horses - except this pony giving free rides to children. Disappointing, because they do look so pretty, prancing around on the wheat, but it was obvious that their work is also essential to the process. Without the horses first having flattened the straw, the oxen had a harder time of dragging their boards over it.

What one learns by attending these country fairs is how everything has to work in harmony in the countryside. They may make this all into a game for the kids, but even their part, for added weight, is important.

And while these may seem like "quaint traditions", we have to learn from them - while we can - with wheat being predicted to be one of global warming's next casualties.

Meanwhile, the fun continued and somebody must have mentioned the free food for a queue like this to form. That wasn't even half of it either. :)

The rest of the afternoon people spent dancing in the open air next to that market building. Even in the early evening, I could still hear the band playing, all the way up at home.

Those fiestas weren't going to end until everyone had enough, I think.

Personally, after trying to cover even just the major events from the 10 days that the fiestas lasted, I had loads of fun, but I'm also fairly knackered!

The local people have been brilliant, answering all my "stupid" questions over why such and such a thing is done. And, as well as being aware of my constant snapping with the camera, many know that I've been translating this into English, which had made them ever more keen to respond.

You may not come to El Palmar's fiestas in particular, however, but all towns and villages on these islands have their own version of fiestas like this - with a similar lineup of events - so that, if you do come across a fiesta in progress, or make a trip to see one, I hope this series will give you some better insight into what's going on to be able to enjoy it and participate.

And do you know what, there on Sunday were some people in nice, brand new blue t-shirts printed with Comisión de Fiestas 2008. Yeah, selling raffle tickets to begin to collect money to pay for next year's fiestas already. :)

More Photos from the Fiestas El Palmar 2007

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Disastrous year for Tenerife wines

One of the worst years ever, with some producers declaring a wipe out.


2007's sorry looking shriveled grapes
The grapes here will probably be harvested in the next week or so, if there's anything left worth picking.

Some 400,000 Euros (£270,000) of vines were burnt by the fire at the end of July in just this region of Ycoden Daute Isora alone. To that must be added the production losses in the forthcoming three years and the cost of replanting them, which summed, doubles that amount.

This may not sound particularly disastrous to those of you who live in cities where milk comes from cartons and wine from European wine lakes bottles, but to a small producer here in Tenerife, it certainly is a catastrophe.

Vines Vintage 2005
Vines Vintage 2005
Fortunately, the sorry looking grapes in the backyard here are grown only for "home consumption" and not commercially (usually enough to make 200 liters, mind you), but it's still sad to see lots of hard work being turned into, well, not a lot.

As well as the damage done by the fire, the heatwave during that last week in July, combined with the lack of decent weather for the rest of the summer, brought fungal problems and decimated the rest of the crop.

Even a non-expert like me can see the huge difference between the grapes this year and the healthy looking ones from previous years and, growers are reporting harvests of half or a third of their usual quantities.

The Island Corporation are promising to analyse the situation, but that small growers are asking for "mechanisms that allows them to insure" for these losses, confirms that there is no such help available at present.

In this video, Canarias24horas visit vineyards in the Tacoronte-Acentejo region, where they say that the heatwave and the lack of sun the rest of the year has "mortally wounded" this year's harvest. See for yourself.

Las pérdidas en Ycoden Daute Isora ascienden a 400.000 Euros

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Gastronomic Route "De Tapas por el Puerto"



You know, I was reflecting upon what could be the reason for people asking where they could get 'nice English food' in Tenerife and the thought crossed my mind, very briefly, that it could be because Britain has filled with trendy tapas bars in recent years, so folk want to try something different.

Yes, I quickly dismissed the thought again too. :)

Anyway, for those of you who are adventurous enough to venture away from the plethora of fast food, roast beef dinners and full English Breakfasts, I'm assuming that you know what tapas are and, that if you'll eat them at home, you'll be willing to try some here in Tenerife too.

The whole concept of going "de tapas" is such a respectable way of suggesting a pub crawl too, but you'll have to hurry as this opportunity only exists until the end of the month - or this coming Sunday, to be exact.

Puerto de la Cruz is holding it's first I Ruta Gastronómica (Gastronomic Route), entitled "De tapas por el Puerto", in which 22 participating restaurants in the town are offering visitors the chance to try a tapa, plus other "Productos de la Tierra" (products of the land): especially the ones made from either grapes or barley (considered here to be almost "health foods"! :-)

The cost for this small portion of food, accompanied by a glass of wine or beer is just 2 euros (about £1.35). Partakers also get a "culinary passport", which lists all 22 bars, opening times, etc., and, those who manage to complete the entire route and present their passport fully stamped, participate in a prize draw for a weekend for 2 in a 4 Star hotel, spa treatments, or their own weight in wine!

We do suggest that you don't have to do it all in one day though!

Six of the participating bars are; Casa Pablo (Avenida de Venezuela), Rancho Grande (Paseo de San Telmo), Dinámico (Plaza del Charco), Casa Régulo (Pérez Zamora), Casa Pache (La Verdad) y Granada-Casa Lolo (San Felipe). Passport cards can be obtained at any of them, or from the Cámara de Comercio (Chamber of Commerce) in the Plaza de Europa.

LA RUTA ?DE TAPAS POR EL PUERTO? Y SU PASAPORTE GASTRONÓMICO
"De Tapas por el Puerto" Gastronomic Route
I Ruta de Tapas por el Puerto de la Cruz
De tapas por el Puerto

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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Big Brother's Canarian Kiss and Tell

Now, I would rather have teeth pulled than watch so-called "Reality TV", but even I couldn't help having some curiosity over what might happen in this year's Gran Hermano, the Spanish version of Big Brother.

There were three Canarians in GH9 - something which, I agree with Charlie at Canarias Bruta, probably only gives them the chance to embarrass the islands nationally.

Well, he put it rather more graphically and strongly than that. :-)

The three originally included Oliver, a singer from Gran Canaria; Karen Delgado, from Tenerife, who was Miss Tenerife in 2004 and represented the province in Miss España 2005, appearing in Hola! (The original of Hello! Magazine) and, who has since worked in the family hardware shop.

The third Canarian contestant was Amor (we all know that means Love, right?), the 18 year old from Fuerteventura. This is where the fun started, because Amor, it seems, used to be called David. Or, as Canarias24horas ask, ¿Gran hermana o gran hermano? (Big sister or big brother?) and, reveal that she was a contestant in Miss Transexual Canarias 2007.

At 13, she was one of the youngest drag queens in the Canary Islands.

Go on, admit it, the same question crossed your mind as it did mine, "Has she had surgery yet?" Gaymengc say she "is now taking hormones and planning on having surgery in the future." Her mother had said that she would have paid for the surgery with the money from the contest.

As everybody knows, or as Parkinson says in this brilliant interview with Ben Elton on why the British Public love Big Brother, "all they're waiting for is for a couple of them to get into bed together and have a shag."

Whilst the public was made aware of Amor's past - obviously, so people would be glued to screens waiting to see what happened - the other inmates of the house didn't know about Amor's little surprise down her trousers!

Clearly, Telecinco wanted this year?s edition to remain a big audience-puller, but the potentially most riveting scenes are, alas, not to be, because Amor, who they describe as "the most problematic contestant" became the first to be evicted this week, with only a tale of an (alleged) kiss to tell!

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Elton John in Tenerife, in 2008

First it was on, then it was off, but whilst Elton John fans in Tenerife will, for the moment, have to be content with an Elton John tribute show in the shape of Dave Tracey (kindly pointed out by Joe Cawley), this article on Yahoo News suggests that the gig will now take place during 2008.

Rolo Producciones and Rider Producciones, the production companies for the concert, announced Monday that, while the British singer will not be performing in Tenerife in November, as was previously foreseen, he will perform in Tenerife next year. (Fingers crossed?)

The reason for the postponement, says the release, is due to a change in the venue for the concert, made after conversations with the artist's representatives, who visited Tenerife recently to finalize preparations.

Last week, the technicians who accompany John on his tour agreed with the production company to change the venue to the Institución Ferial de Tenerife (International Fairs and Congress Center), in Santa Cruz.

Once all the details have been worked out and they synchronize diaries to find the dates that both the Fairs and Congress Center and Elton John are available, it's expected that they will communicate the new date.

Elton John no actuará en noviembre en Tenerife y aplaza su actuación en la isla a 2008

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Car Free Day in Tenerife


Traffic jam near La Oratava | Originally uploaded by Peter Nijenhuis.
The traffic jams in Tenerife are legendary and getting worse, but I don't imagine there will be an easy solution to the problem, least of all a lukewarm nod in the direction of, El Día sin coche (Car Free Day), that is, apparently, celebrated every year on September 22nd. That was today, Tuesday, September 25th, here in Tenerife (working on Canary Time :)

And to be honest, we haven't noticed any evidence of it being observed, but then that would require that people know in advance, which I doubt they did and that there was a public transport system fully up to the job, which there certainly isn't.

The culmination of European Mobility Week, was apparently a farce when celebrated here in 2003. The town hall in Santa Cruz closed a few roads in the capital - not even half - most of which are pedestrianized to start with. ATAN go on to say that they were sure local councillors would be going to the various activities planned around the day in cars, official ones at that.

Yet a recent study undertaken by the council of Public Works and Transport of the Canarian Government, indicated that the number of cars in the archipelago increased by 83% between 1991 and 2003.

Furthermore, greenhouse gas emissions have increased in the archipelago more than in any other region of Spain, in concrete, by 81.8% between 1990 and 2004, despite the fact that the target permitted by the Kyoto agreement allowed for an increase of just 15% between 1990 and 2010. In Tenerife alone, cars emit 100,000 tons more CO2 per year than the refinery!

El parque automovilístico de Canarias ha aumentado un 83% desde 1991
Los coches de la Isla emiten 100.000 toneladas más de CO2 al año que la Refinería

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Full moon, museum and dinner



Every month, on the Thursday closest to the luna llena (full moon) - which, this month, will be this coming Thursday, September 28th - the Museo de Historia de Tenerife (Tenerife History Museum), Casa Lercaro, C/ San Agustín, 22, 38201 La Laguna, organizes a guided visit to the museum.

Entitled, "Luna llena, museo y cena", it's complete with a dinner specially designed for the event by some of the most prestigious chefs on the island.

This month is the turn of Juan Carlos Clemente, of the Poseidón and Hotel Grand Anthelia and the theme: De la caña al plátano: los grandes ciclos económicos (From sugar cane to bananas: the great economic cycles).

Information and reservations: 922 82 59 49/43.

The Casa de Lercaro itelf, built in 1593, by Francisco Lercaro de León, Lieutenant General of Tenerife, is a fine example of Canary Island civil architecture: a magnificent setting for a cultured dinner.

Luna llena, museo y cena: "De la caña al plátano: los grandes ciclos económicos"

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Tenerife Opera 2007

The Tenerife Opera season starts today with the first of three performances of Giacomo Puccini's opera in three acts, Turandot.

Puccini's posthumous work will be performed in the Sala Sinfónica of the Auditorio de Tenerife on Tuesday, September 25th, Thursday, September 27th and Saturday, September 29th.

Of course, the program was planned long ago, but I imagine this will stir a few emotions, so soon after the death of Pavarotti, whose performance of Nessun Dorma (from the third act of Turandot) is the favorite of many, whether they are into opera, or not.

Incidentally, there's a lovely translation of the words of Nessun Dorma here.

"Turandot" de Puccini abrirá el próximo martes la nueva edición de Ópera de Tenerife
Turandot at the Auditorio de Tenerife

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No Canary Islands For Elton John In 2007

Sooooo what is the town hall in Santa Cruz playing at? Back at the end of August, they announced that Sir Elton John was to play in Tenerife in November (see original story, in Spanish). And, it seems, a date of November 15th has been bandied about somewhere since.

Yet, according to this news item on Sir Elton's own website:

"Local media in Tenerife, Canary Islands, is insisting that Elton is to play a concert there on November 15, and we have received many messages asking if this is true. We have spoken to Elton's management today and they confirm that Elton has no plans to play in Tenerife this year."


No Canary Islands For Elton John In 2007 (Via: All The Music News)

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Sunday, September 23, 2007

Tenerife Village Fiesta: Day 10

Fiestas Day 10 - Sunday, September 23st (Day of Traditions)

Learning to driveAnd so we come to the program for the final day and big finale of the fiestas in El Palmar: the Day of Traditions or Country Fair.

From 11:00 at the Finca Los Pedregales in El Palmar. The highlight of the day is La Trilla (Threshing) carried out, as we see, with oxen, horses and lots of audience participation.

The fiesta program says that this is "an obligatory date in the calendar" (I shan't argue), organized by the Neighbours' Association in El Palmar, The Commission of Fiestas and the Town Hall in Buenavista del Norte.

CarbonerasPlenty of animals and farm implements round out this country fair, along with demonstrations of other local traditions such as the Carboneras (smoking heap of earth and foliage) that people in this area used to make charcoal.

There is such thing as a free lunch too; laid on for everyone who attends (expect to queue, mind you) and the day will come to a close with a stupendous dance in the plaza (next to the market building). The Latin Jazz style band from Buenavista they had for this last year was superb.

Baskets of JoyIt's also worth mentioning that the Farmers' Market generally has three times as many stalls as usual, offering the freshest local produce, as well as genuine local crafts. Hint: those make far better souvenirs than the plastic items that you may find in the souvenir shops, as well as that benefitting the local people.

Visit the following page for the start of this series of posts on these Fiestas.

Fiestas El Palmar 2007 Photos

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Saturday, September 22, 2007

Mowgli eats Canarian Bananas

Not quite as far fetched (or controversial) as the idea of Paddington Bear eating Marmite, this cute story in ABC made me smile.

Jungle Book characters, Mowgli and Baloo, are to promote the virtues of Canarian bananas, thanks to an agreement between the association of producers, Asprocan and the Walt Disney Company, for the 40th Anniversary of the cinematic adaptation of Rudyard Kipling's classic. (Gee was it that long ago?)

Mowgli consume plátanos de Canarias


(How apt that my Canarian dog - who eats bananas - became the adoptive "Raksha" to my Canarian born Balu and Khan, named for the characters. And this little Balu certainly lives up to the description of Sloth Bear! )

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Tenerife Village Fiesta: Day 9

Floral offeringWell, we've reached the 2nd last day of the fiestas today. Doesn't time fly when you're having fun? :)

No really, I've been impressed with the sheer variety of events laid on and that have catered for all ages and, considering that this is such a small pueblo. Today, we have:

Fiestas Day 9 - Saturday, September 22st

At 17:00 Thanksgiving mass and procession around the plaza ... Followed by floral and produce offerings in honour of the Virgin.

At 23:00 Gran Verbena with the Malibu Band, which is a local - very local: they hail from the Barrio de La Cuesta in Buenavista del Norte - 14 piece outfit playing the usual selections of Salsa and Merengue for fiestas.



Visit the following page for the start of this series of posts on these Fiestas.

Fiestas El Palmar 2007 Photos

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Friday, September 21, 2007

Tenerife Village Fiesta: Day 8


Trestle tables are set out in rows in El Palmar's square for the old folks' afternoon tea.
Whilst I shall (despite being an emigrant / immigrant), of course, claim to have nothing whatsoever in common with the other attendees at the Old Folks Day of El Palmar's fiestas and, deliberately avoided partaking of afternoon tea (to do so would have been an admission that I was old enough), from a cultural and historical point of view, the day's events were some of the more fascinating on the agenda.


Members of the folk groups, in traditional costume, tuck into the sandwiches, rosquetes and wine.
Canarian folk music is a bit of an acquired taste for anyone not born amongst it, but for anyone with even a passing interest in the history of the islands - and their influence on the development of the New World - observing these traditions raises some interesting questions.

Canarian folklore is a product of the temperament and psychology of the Canarian people, their aboriginal ancestry and rites, as well as marks left by the various different cultures that have invaded the islands. This has produced a style with a personality that is very particular to the islands.

It's interesting to note that there are "purists" who would have everything done just so in relation to Canarian folklore, both the music and the dress. In fact, this view can be seen as entirely contrary to the nature of the beast, which has been in constant evolution for more than five centuries.

That the day's entertainments were preceded by a mass for the emigrants, was highly appropriate. Being one of the least developed (least spoilt) areas of Tenerife is synonymous with being one of the poorest financially, thus, the percentage of people who have, in history and living memory, emigrated, mostly to Venezuela, from these valleys is particularly high.

There are strong links between Tenerife and Venezuela, through emigration and numerous returnees who brought back customs, a taste for arepas, cachapas and hallacas and, even Venezuelan born kids, but we tend to think of the more recent waves of emigration to escape poverty and repression in the 20th Century and, their return since democracy was restored.

When we think of musical styles that the Canary Islands share in common with Latin America, the ones that come to mind most readily are Salsa, Merengue and, more recently Reggaeton, all of which have made their way east across the Atlantic ocean, but that are all now homegrown too.

But the cultural and musical links go back much farther than that.

In 1536, Pedro Fernández de Lugo, son of Tenerife's conqueror and first Adelantado (Governor), embarked on his expedition to Santa Marta in Colombia with 1,500 soldiers, half of whom were Canarians.

Santo Domingo, Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico, Argentina, Uruguay, Florida, Luisiana, San Antonio (Texas) and, above all Venezuela (where Canarians, at times, made up 52% of the white immigrants into the country), were all also either founded or colonized by Canarians. Either voluntarily or by force, it's calculated that 10,000 Canarians or Canary Island residents emigrated to the Americas in the first century after the conquest alone.

In later centuries, these numbers were considerably greater still.


Dancers from Teno Alto.
Meanwhile, the fiestas and traditional dances in El Palmar and Teno Alto, we are told, have been passed down through the generations.

This group, which is from Teno Alto, danced the danza de las cintas (ribbon dance) that is reminiscent of Maypole dances and treated us to performances of various others of the most noted local folk dances; Tajaraste de Teno, Polka de Teno and Joropo de Teno.

Joropo is a word that I'm familiar with, because one of the regular dance troupes at Tenerife's main Carnaval in Santa Cruz every year is called the Joroperos. Male dancers of the Joropo wear what is called liquiliqui: an outfit, traditional to the plains of Columbia and Venezuela and, again, one of the groups to perform regularly in Santa Cruz' Carnaval, Los Liqui-Liquis, takes this word as their name. They actually come from Venezuela, but in representation of the Hogar Canario (kinda Canarians abroad club) there.

The Joropo - a musical style resembling the waltz, and an accompanying dance, having African and European influences - is considered an unofficial national anthem in Venezuela and is said to have originated in the middle 1600s, in Columbia and Venezuela, but the roots of joropo include music from sailors and troubadours who came in galleons from Spain.


Dancers in typical Tenerife dress.
One must remember that back in the days of galleons, a stop in the Canary Islands for provisions, often also taking on additional passengers and crew, was mandatory, even if the ships did not originally depart from the archipelago.

Some styles of folk music here contain elements of aboriginal customs, onto which Spanish ones have been tacked. This is certainly true of the tajaraste. When you consider that around 150 years had passed between the conquest of these islands and the appearance of the joropo in Latin America, it becomes less clear if this went straight from Spain to Venezuela, or whether it picked up elements from the islands first.

When you also add that in the years between 1900 and 1910 alone, although 53,920 emigrants left the Canary Islands, some 61,931 actually returned here from the Americas, it starts to be unclear even in which direction this crossed the Atlantic. But either way, at some point in history, a dance with the name of joropo reached the plains of Teno Alto; one of Tenerife's smallest and most inaccessible hamlets, where it is still danced.

LA EMIGRACIÓN CANARIA A AMÉRICA A TRAVÉS DE LA HISTORIA
LA EMIGRACIÓN CANARIA HACIA AMÉRICA
La emigración canaria a Venezuela


Today, we can rejuvenate and bring ourselves right up to date with:

Fiestas Day 8 - Friday, September 21st (Youth Day)

At 17:00 Workshops in the plaza, under the watchful eye of the Buenavista del Norte youth club.

At 18:00 Festival Infantil (Infants' Festival), a show put on by the children of the district, organized by Deisy Salar and presented by Nohemi and David.

At 21:00 Festival Joven (Youth Festival) with a disco provided by mobile disco, "New Evolution".

Visit the following page for the start of this series of posts on these Fiestas.

Fiestas El Palmar 2007 Photos

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