Monday, July 28, 2008

Living under a cloud - Pinolere

Despite its stunning location; bordered by barrancos on both sides and backed by the vast, sheer, pine clad face of the cumbre, it’s difficult to get a good photo of Pinolere due to the near-constant presence of the sea of clouds which hovers above the settlement.

Known by the locals as living under ‘panza de burro’ (belly of the donkey) because every time they look up they see grey, the cloud is a legacy of the trade winds that frequent the La Orotava Valley. It may be a nuisance when you’re looking for clear blue skies to light up your photographs, and Pinolere is unlikely to knock Playa de las Américas off its pole position for Brits coming to Tenerife in search of a suntan, but for the 700 or so inhabitants of Pinolere the cloud is a friend and ally. Along with lower temperatures, it brings moisture and humidity, essential ingredients for abundant growth.

For centuries the community of Pinolere has been virtually self-sufficient, producing everything it needed from the land; potatoes, corn, wheat, grapes, rice, rye and cane all thrive here. Goats, cows and pigs grow fat on the rich grazing while the forests produce pine needles for their bedding; the trees produce tea and chestnut wood, firewood, charcoal, building material and resin. Once prevalent over much of the ‘medianías’ or central lowlands of Tenerife, the houses of Pinolere were until recently constructed of dry stone, roofed with chestnut wood entwined with branches and then thatched with straw.

As a result, Pinolere is a community of craftsmen and women; basket weavers, carpenters, iron workers, embroiderers, potters, stone workers and charcoal makers.

Pinolere Craft Fair

The intoxicating smell of cakes assails our nostrils as we saunter past the opening stalls groaning under the weight of sugar, almond and syrup coated ‘dulces’ , sweets and chocolates. Then comes mojos, honeys, jams, herbs and spices, each stall more inviting than the next. The wine stalls are particularly popular, small cups dispensing samples from individual cosechas.

Following the winding path as it gently climbs from one level to the next the stalls change to wood carvings, ceramics and toys. Small children pull brightly painted little tin carts on string from a stall that’s doing a brisk trade. The noise and bustle of the crowd is augmented by shrill screeches produced by water filled whistles from another stall.

Sitting within thatched, open sided huts, rows of elderly men and women are weaving cane strips into baskets, hats and trays.

In an open clearing by the refreshment stand, an elderly man in a beret is spinning a top and making it dance, flipping it from his toe to his head and back again to the delight and applause of a small crowd.

On a stage, a group of musicians are demonstrating traditional Canarian musical instruments through the ages and getting a group of children to reproduce the sound each one makes.

Some of the thatched buildings house exhibitions; in one there’s a history of the little hats worn on the side of Canarian women’s heads and in another, a collection of avant-garde handbags made from cane and leather, each one a work of art.

The stalls seem to go on for ever. There are clothes and shoes, dried flower arrangements, beautiful ceramics, dolls houses, Tiffany lamps, glassware and ornamental stoneworks.

And far from being dull, old fashioned, “why-on-earth-did-I-buy-that” when you get it home sort of products, there are the most beautiful and modern designs of ornaments, accessories, furniture, shoes and clothes that fuse craftsmanship and traditional materials with contemporary colour and design.

In short, it’s a revelation and an Aladdin’s cave of early Christmas presents.

This year the Pinolere Crafts Fair will be held over 5^th, 6^th and 7^th September in Pinolere in La Orotava.

As well as the annual crafts fair, there’s a permanent museum housed in thatched buildings which recreates various aspects of local life. Open every Tuesday to Sunday, 10.00 -14.00; entrance €2 adults, €1 children. (Map)

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